Clock In The Lum

Words by William B. Black

The old burgh building at the corner with Fingal Street. Maryhill Cross can be seen in the background. Picture from Guthrie, H. Bygone Maryhill (Stenlake Publishing: 2007)

The clock in the lum was a Maryhill legend in its time as well as being a central feature of the original burgh buildings.

When Maryhill became a police burgh in 1854 it required a building that combined council chamber and offices, court and police station. To meet this a former bakery which was sited almost opposite the White House and at the corner of the Modern Maryhill Road and Fingal Street was converted for the purpose.

At that time many members of the public relied on clocks on public buildings to provide them with information about the time. In addition, although of modest dimensions, some of the new commissioners considered that a clock was required to enhance the status of the building. They, along with other local business men, came together to finance this and, in November 1857, the clock was unveiled.

To make the right impression it required to be in a high part of the building and, ideally, a new clock tower would have been the best solution. Instead, it was decided to place the clock at the base of the chimney stack that was position centrally on the front elevation of the chambers. This proved problematical, as its close proximity to the flues subjected it to variations in heat, along with exposure to soot ingress. It appears also that it was not fitted with a protective glass cover over the dial, giving a further problem of water damage. This would be exacerbated by its exposed position, facing westwards across the Kelvin valley.

March 1863 saw the wedding of Edward, Prince of Wales, to Princess Alaxandra, an event that was celebrated with a grand ball in the burgh chambers. It was alleged that, during this, one over-exuberant guest started ringing the bell attached to the clock, resulting in its later notoriety over accurate time-keeping.

Eight years later, Princess Louise, daughter of Queen Victoria, was due to marry the Marquis of Lorne, and this prompted a poem from “A Canny Scot” in the Dumbarton Herald of 16th March 1871, entitled The Maryhill Police Clock. This warned against any repetition of the high jinks of 1863.

In wha’s bunnet is a bee,

When the Prince o’ Wales was married

He set me a’ agee.

Ding! Dong! Ding!

He pu’d the string’

And many rugged he;

He shook me a’

Big wheels and a’

And now I’m what you see.

And as Louise is getting wed,

The body may gang wild;

And bring us baith doon o’er his head,

wi’ sic a din and thud

A stitch in time

Often saves nine

Forewarned’s forearmed they tell;

So if ye be

In merry key

Tug canny at the bell.

In 1874 apparently there were further complaints about the clock, voiced in correspondence in the Dumbarton Herald. On 11th April 1872 a further poem appeared in the newspaper, this time allegedly a plea from the clock itself to the police superintendent, Captain George Anderson. It was titled An Epistle from the Hall Clock to Captain Anderson.

Dear Geordie, gin I had my wull,

O’ that officious body near the Bull,[i]

I’d bring my pendulum o’er his skull

Wi’ sic a crack

I’ll gie him yet his bellyful

Or break his back

Se what he did in papers say,

To think o’t yet my heart is wae;

Last Thursday being the Fast Day,[ii]

Great crowds did come

To see the boats sail up the brae[iii]

And me I’ the lum

The louns aroun’ did gibe and gaffe;

Baith the weel-to-do and the riff-raff.

Like to a time when auld Calcraf [iv]

is brocht away

Frae hame, to polish criminal aff,

‘cording to law.

Daft D____ was among the crowd,

Tho’ his talk’s not easy understood;

He aye look’d up and said fu’ proud,

Wi’ rougish glee –

“Somebody says” he spak out loud

“it is daft like me.”

At ilka curious upturned face

As weel’s I could I made grimace;

And as soon’s you like get a glass case

To keep me richt;

And a bleeze o’ gas to let a’ the place,

 see the hours at night.

The man wha heard me chap thirteen,

 just said it in a fit o’ spleen;

Though I doubtna’ but sic things hae been

The proverb says;

“corbies shouldna’ pick out corbies’ e’en”

let him mend his ways

The pleasures seekers used to run,

by the Three Tree Well, and Kelvingrove;[v]

and seek the hermit, fancied cove.

That hallowed spot

Thae wonders noo I’m classed above

By the Canny Scot.

Great things spring whiles frae but sma’ germs,

And I hear you’re on the closest terms,[vi]

Wi’ the Lord Lyon, King at Arm,

Wha’s comin doon

To sketch me in a coat of arms[vii]

For our auld toon.

Now dinna’ think that I’m uncivil,

For sending to the printer’s devil,

To set and press this rhyming drivel;

Sae I’ll quat my pen;

May the Lord preserve you from a’ evil.

Amen! Amen!

                                                                                                                   The Police Clock
The Lum April 8th 1872

By September 1877, with the new burgh buildings nearing completion, consideration was given to the future of its predecessor. It still remained an inaccurate time-keeper and, when it was noted it was striking One o’ clock when it should have been denoting six, another brief poem appeared in the press.

Whiles it wags awa’

but it’s oftener standin’ still

It’s as gude’s nae clock ava’

The clock at Maryhill[viii]

Despite this it retained its loyal fans and, on Hogmanay 1877 a group of young men gathered to greet the New Year for one final time at the old building. They positioned themselves at the stone magazine on the opposite side of Maryhill Road, or Main Street, as it was known then. This magazine survives today, being the inshot in the canal boundary wall just north of the White House. The clock in the newly constructed barracks was heard to strike midnight, along with the sound of the pipes and rums, greeting in 1878. This was followed almost immediately by the bell at the newly opened Gas Works at the foot of Butny Brae. Still the clock in the lum maintained a dignified silence and, after a further few minutes, deigned to acknowledge the sizeable crowd of supporters standing opposite. As the clock began striking the assembled throng cheered lustily then, as the last notes died away across the valley, dispersed to continue their revelries elsewhere.

Consideration turned towards the future use of the old building, a proposal to convert it into a Working Men’s Mechanical Institution receiving a poor response locally. An advert was placed in the Glasgow Herald on 20th January 1878 but apparently did not produce any decent offers. The old clock was allowed to run down, leading in January 1879 to numerous complaints to the commissioners. Probably reluctantly, they had it serviced and in operation again by May, although it continued to be reported as producing and “uncertain sound,” while maintaining its reputation for poor time keeping.

June 1880 saw the commissioners decide to expose the buildings for rental and, in September, they received a conditional offer. This came from Thomas Reid, a Glasgow tobacconist, who was to become the owner of several public houses within the city in the last decades of the 19th century. He offered a price of £1800 subject to his being granted a hotel and inn licence, good title, free of all bonds (loans) and entry by Martinmas (December 1880.) One of the commissioners, the architect Alexander Petrie, pointed out that the Union Bank held security on the buildings, negating one of Reid’s conditions while it remained. The bank had made inquiries when it was forts placed on the market and Petrie suggested that they be approached once more. Probably aware that Maryhill had ample public house provision, Petrie suggested that the bank would be a superior owner. Unfortunately, by this time the bank had premises in a handsome building that survives today at 1944 Maryhill Road.

By October it had been learned that Reid’s application had lapsed and the future of the buildings and the clock were in doubt once more. By this time the clock was out of order once more, despite having been overhauled in August and a Mr Desh being tasked to keep it wound properly.

The continued complaints about the clock led to the publishing of a last poem in the Dumbarton Herald of 23rd October 1880. Patrick Carrigan was an Irish born nail maker, who had lived and worked in Maryhill since the 1840s and who had died recently. It is probable that as well as a reference to the clock, it is a farewell to a well-loved local worthy.

PAT CARRIGAN’S DEFENCE OF THE CLOCK 

He’d put a certain gooson from the makin’ o’ songs,

If he had his nose in his ould smiddy tools;

Aya and red hot we’d mak’ them, at least so he says

With his brogue, his blarney and bletherin’ ways

The clock he declares to be good of its kind

Tho’ it’s sometimes too fast, or a little behind.

For all of us vary betimes, so he says

With his brogue, his blarney and bletherin’ ways

The man at the lock is a dirty spalpeen

For sayin’ he heard it strikin’ thirteen;

I will show that it never could do it, because

With my brogue, my blarney and bletherin’ ways

Once more the old building was advertised, this time to be rented out rather than sold, one suggestion being that it be converted into a model lodging house. Although its ‘fan club’ appears to have disappeared, at least one member remained faithful. On Hogmanay 1880 a drunk was found, sitting on the magazine wall, “waitin’ for the clock tae bring in the New year.”   

In February 1881 it was revealed that Dr William MacDonald had agreed to convert the old burgh buildings into a surgery, while extending the living accommodation for use by his family. This was ironic, as Dr MacDonald was a strong critic of the commissioners and would be one of those who campaigned for amalgamation with Glasgow, which occurred in 1891. He died in 1897 but the buildings continued to be used as a surgery until 1948, when it was demolished. The clock continued to be maintained, this being taken over by Glasgow Corporation by the end of the 19th century but kept its hard won reputation for its singular method of telling time.

Today the site is occupied by a small tenement block, next to Kilmun Street, originally built in the 1950s as police housing.

NOTES

[i]  The “Bull” referred to is the Black Bull Inn, which lay to the south of the burgh hall and was one of the early hostelries in the village. Unlike many of the others it appears to have been of good reputation, supervised for many years by Mrs Martin, then her daughter Isabella. At the founding of the burgh, it housed the commissioners’ meetings until the burgh court was ready, then was the scene of many burgh functions until the building at Gairbraid Avenue was completed in 1874

[ii] In the 19th century the Church of Scotland still held regular fast days, in which members were expected to practice abstinence in all things. By the 1870s they had become holidays for many working people, who would take the opportunity to enjoy a day out of the city where possible.

[iii] Opposite the burgh hall was the start of the flight of five locks which led down to the Kelvin Viaduct on the Forth & Clyde Canal (Locks 21 to 25) In an area when there was regular traffic through the canal in both directions, this would be a place of great activity and a great attraction to the population. As an added attraction, in the adjacent Kelvin Dock was the shipyard of J & R Swan, birthplace of the Clyde “puffer” and there would be several vessels under construction to be inspected, if only at long range.

[iv] Calcraf was the public executioner

[v] This is a reference both to a local beauty spot and the famous song “Kelvingrove” written in 1821 by Thomas Lyle. The Three Tree Well (also known as the Pear Tree Well) lay close to the Kelvin near the present day Ford Road. It was a favourite trysting spot for young people, until one girl was found murdered there. The murder was never solved but the “traditional” story is that the culprit was a jilted lover. When the railway was built through Kirklee, the well was buried in the banking, although today water from it seeps intermittently down into the Kelvin. “Kelvingrove” was written in praise of the gorge which runs from Garrioch Quadrant down approximately to Queen Margaret Drive. Due to the name being used at a later date for a house further downstream, it has been incorrectly associated with the area in which the Art galleries stand. 

[vi] Capt. Anderson was well known for “social climbing” in Maryhill

[vii] In the end the coat of arms was produced by Alexander Thomson, pattern designer at Maryhill Print Work and chronicler of the 19th century burgh, to whom all of us owe a great debt for the information he recorded. Although included in a later book by a Lord Lyon King at Arms, it appears that the arms were never registered (that cost money). This came to light In 1955, when North Kelvinside Senior Secondary School were seeking to use them as part of their revised school badge.

[viii] Lennox Herald, 27th January 1877

The author of this essay is a retired training manager who carries out research into less well known areas of local history in Glasgow and the West of Scotland. As a Maryhill native he has a particular interest in the history of the area and, especially, that of the old police burgh up until 1891. These essays are taken from the research notes that have been drawn up over a period of years and are intended as an introduction which can be used by those seeking more information.

Maryhill Burgh Halls Trust want to thank William Black for his incredible support throughout the years, having shared all his in-depth research and snippets since the start of the Trust’s journey into the history of the Burgh. We are also very grateful for allowing us to post his wonderful essays to our blog. This is the third one of the series, you can read the first one on shipbuilding by clicking here and the second one on the estate of Maryhill here.

The estates that made Maryhill

Words by William B. Black

Map of Maryhill estates divided by the River Kelvin

Prior to the Reformation the area known today as Maryhill was the property of the Diocese of Glasgow, which stretched over a considerable part of south west Scotland at one point. In 1175, William the Lion declared that Glasgow was to be a Burgh of Barony, under the continued control of the Archbishop, Jocelyn. 

This covered not only the town but an area roughly from the banks of the Kelvin in the west to Shettleston in the East and included Govan on the south bank of the Clyde. Following the flight of Archbishop James Beaton in 1560, the area came under the control of the Protestant church and, in 1611, the town of Glasgow was promoted to the status of a Royal Burgh by James VI, but the area around it continued as a barony. 

Even before the Reformation, the area had been divided up into estates and farms, whose occupants feud the land from the Church. When this control loosened in the late 16th century, others moved in to take over control, including Walter Stewart, Commendator of Blantyre. A commendator is defined as someone having a temporary holding of an ecclesiastical benefice but Walter’s holding proved permanent. In 1587 James VI transferred the Barony charter to him and on the list of estates contained within are Garroch, Gairbraid and Rouchhill, one of the earliest references to areas that remain part of Maryhill today. 

At the time that the early village developed, the core of the district was considered to be Gairbraid and we know that it existed as early as November 1515, when Alan Duncan feued part of it. More significantly in 1536 John Hutcheson inherited another part following the death of his father. Gradually over the next decades the family obtained larger parts of the estate and in August 1600 it passed to George, who was a great-great nephew of John. George’s father, Thomas had inherited the adjacent estate of Lambhill, which had passed to his other son, also Thomas. Today George & Thomas Hutcheson are remembered through Hutchesons’ Grammar School, and the building known as Hutchesons’ Hospital in Ingram St. 

Gairbraid House by David Small (Glasgow Life) 

The Hutcheson brothers were solicitors in Glasgow and appear to have been very adroit at adding to their property portfolio in the early years of the 17th century, often from deceased clients. George died in 1639 and Thomas three years later, both without any children and their estates passed to their three sisters. One of them had married Ninian Hill in 1609, who died around 1621 but he brought with him the small estate of Garroch, now referred to as Garrioch. Helen had a son also called Ninian and she passed on the inheritance of both Gairbraid and Garrioch to him soon after the Hutcheson brothers died. Her sisters did likewise and Ninian gained Lambhill, giving him an estate stretching from the banks of the Kelvin to Balgrayhill in Springburn. 

Gairbraid and Garrioch were passed down through successive male generations of Hill, until 1738 when it was inherited by eight year old Mary, who lived in Greenock.  Around 1761, Mary married Robert Graham, a former merchant navy captain, whose father had purchased Lambhill in 1700.  By this time the Glasgow area was beginning to develop commercially, but Gairbraid was encumbered by debt and unable to provide much capital. 

To ease the burden, the Grahams sold land on which he had attempted to mine coal without much success to Sir Ilay Campbell, owner of Garscube estate, in return for an annuity. Then, in 1785, it was announced that the Forth & Clyde Canal was to be extended westwards from its terminus at Stockingfield on the adjacent Ruchill estate. 

To do so, land was purchased from the Grahams and, with their finances more secure, they decided that they must have a more fashionable house in which to live. The original Gairbraid House had been built in 1688, but in 1789 they had a new Georgian mansion constructed overlooking the Kelvin, with a tree lined drive from the Drymen Toll Road, this surviving today as Gairbraid Avenue. 

The toll road, known as Garscube Toll, had been constructed in 1753, another windfall for Gairbraid Estate, although it divided their land rather awkwardly. Then, when the canal was being built, it was realised that the road would require to be moved to enable an aqueduct to be built across it. At this time it ran behind the site occupied today by the library and a 90o turn was built just below the line of the canal taking it down to the modern Maryhill Road. Beyond this, a new length of road was built running to the top of the hill, rejoining the original where it turns at Kelvin Dock. This left a cul de sac, running from the north bank of the canal to the toll road, known today as Aray St., with a narrow strip of land between the two. This would prove unsuitable for agriculture but the canal brought the potential of further industrial development. Therefore in 1787, the Grahams advertised it as a series of building plots and Robert saw an opportunity to enshrine his wife’s name in the area for future generations. At this time, it was fashionable for new areas being feued off to be named either with the family name of the seller or, possibly romantically with that of the lady of the family. It was the initial feus of these properties that contained the term ‘in the village known as Maryhill’ but, it took several decades for the name to become established. 

By 1809, both Robert and Mary were dead, leaving two daughters, Lilias, who never married and remained in residence at Gairbraid until her death and Janet, who married Alexander Dunlop of Greenock. The estate passed to their son John but after Lilias’ death occupancy passed to a series of tenants. By 1923, it had been divided into flats and it was demolished a few years later. 

Garrioch House

Closely connected to Gairbraid is the estate of Garrioch, which appears for the first time in 1512 and passed through several hands before coming into that of Marion Wilson, who married James Hill of Ibrox in 1582. 

As seen above, their son Ninian married Helen Hutcheson in 1609. At this time it appears that Hill did not inherit the whole estate as, in 1597 half of it had been feued by Blantyre to John Wylie, Clerk to the King’s Chancel. 

When their son Ninian inherited it appears to have been quite extensive, a 1680 description suggesting it ran from the modern Queen Margaret Bridge along the Kelvin to Kelvindale Rd, then followed this along a line that eventually met the Western Necropolis, then ran diagonally across St Kentigern’s Cemetery to its SW corner. From there, the boundary ran back to the point where the railway line crosses the canal, then goes back down it to Stockingfield. It then runs along the Glasgow Branch to Bilsland Dr, before heading back down to its starting point at Queen Margaret Bridge. 

By the time Glasgow merchant William James Davidson bought it in 1827, it had shrunk and, when the War Office were looking for a site for new barracks in 1872, the bulk of the estate was sold off for this purpose. Of course, once the barracks closed in 1958 the logical move would have been to bring back the original name for the new housing estate but, instead, it was given that of Wyndford, originally a small area adjacent to the canal at Lochburn Rd. 

Ruchill House by David Small (Glasgow Life) 

The estate that appears to have gained most from the breaking up of Garrioch was Ruchill, once the largest within the Maryhill area. Like the others, it appears initially in the surviving records at the beginning of the 16th century, when it was owned by Edward Marshall. It followed the usual pattern of being inherited by several generations, at least two through the female line, but by 1658 it was in the hands of a Glasgow merchant, Thomas Peadie. He was one of the proprietors of the Eastern Sugar House in Glasgow and at one point was provost of Glasgow, the first Maryhill resident to do so. He appears to have been a ruthless individual, who died in 1717, passing the estate to his son James, the second person from Maryhill to become provost of Glasgow. 

Peadie died in 1728 but his son John was the last male heir, his two sons both dying before their father. This resulted in the estate being divided between his five aunts. At this time, it stretched from just east of the former Ruchill Hospital all the way down to Great Western Rd, including Kirklee and a large portion of Kelvinside.  Given their pedigree, it should not be unexpected that they could not agree on the division of the estate, including their home, Ruchill House. It had been built around 1700 and was a simple house, located approximately at the north end of the modern Whitworth Gardens. Like Gairbraid, access was along a drive from the parish road, which ran close to the Kelvin, this surviving today in the form of Shakespeare St and Ruchill St. 

Robert Dreghorn

During the dispute, a surveyor had been brought in to value the estate and, once the matter was settled, he made an offer to purchase it. All but one sister, Grizell, agreed and the bulk of it passed to Alan Dreghorn. He was part of the Glasgow elite but is remembered today for his design of the magnificent St Andrew’s Church south of Glasgow Cross. He died childless in 1764 and the estate passed to his nephew Robert, better known to his contemporaries as ’Bob Dragon.’  As a child, he had suffered from smallpox, which left him with a badly disfigured face, although to compensate he became one of the best dressed men in Glasgow. While considered eccentric, he was a man who was well aware of the value of his property and also ensured that he was never undersold. This tendency contributed to delays in completion of the Forth & Clyde Canal to Stockingfield, as it went through his estate and Dreghorn held out for the best price available. 

Dreghorn committed suicide in 1804, the estate passing to his sister Elizabeth, who also died childless in 1821. This resulted in the estate being inherited by her niece, Isabella Dennistoun, who placed it up for sale in 1826. The buyer was William James Davidson, another Glasgow merchant, but by 1860 Ruchill House was being advertised for a furnished let. In 1875, it became the club house of the Glasgow North Western Golf Club, who laid out their course to the north and west, part of it surviving today close to the canal. At the beginning of the 20th century, much of the estate came under the ownership of Glasgow Corporation, with Ruchill Hospital and Park being built on the southern half. The house was demolished in 1927 and much of the area built over for council housing. 

Kelvinside House by David Small. This view drawn from the north west  includes in the foreground the land occupied formerly By North Kelvinside School playing fields and Kelbourne School (Glasgow Life) 

The portion of Ruchill that had been retained by Grizell Peadie lay to the south east and straddled the Kelvin. It became known as Bankhead until she sold it to Thomas Dunmore, a Glasgow merchant in 1749. Immediatel,y he renamed it Kelvinside and, in the following year, he had a magnificent mansion built, its position being approximately at the top of the hill in Clouston Street, on its north side. The western half of the latter formed the main drive, which ran down to the parish road along the Kelvin. 

Dunmore’s son was one of those who suffered financially during the American Revolution and, in 1785, it was sold to Dr Thomas Lithian of the East India Company. After Lithian died, his wife Elizabeth remarried, her second husband being Archibald Cuthill, a Glasgow solicitor. It was during their ownership that Kelvinside House saw the birth of Henry Campbell-Bannerman in 1836, the only person born in Maryhill to become UK prime minister, at least to date. 

Matthew Montgomerie and John Park Fleming purchased the estate from Cuthill’s widow in 1836 and they began to consider plans to develop housing upon it. The formation of the Burgh of Maryhill in 1856 effectively split the estate in two, with the Kelvin marking the internal boundary. In 1869, 93.4 acres of the Maryhill part were sold to John E Walker, who set about developing much of the area we know today as North Kelvin. Simultaneously Fleming’s descendants became responsible for developing the housing that was to form Kirklee and Kelvinside. 

The remaining estates had small portions that were included within Maryhill, that immediately bordering Kelvinside being North Woodside, which had passed from the Church to Adam Colquhoun , Rector of Stobo. From there it went to his daughter, Elizabeth, who had married Sir George Elphinstone, provost of Glasgow. 

Stevenson Memorial Church by Tom Maxwell 

However, by the early 17th century it had passed into the hands of Colin Campbell and it remained with that family until 1694. Then it passed to Archibald Stirling of Kier and this heralded a period when it changed hands at regular intervals. By 1804, it was owned by Colin Gillespie, a Glasgow calico printer but, by 1822 he had gone out of business and the estate passed temporarily into the hands of the bank. They sold it on to an accountant John Paul, who retained ownership until 1845. After a short period under the control of John Bain, it became the property of the ill-fated City of Glasgow Bank. They began to develop the area for feuing and, to improve access to the city, built the handsome Belmont St Bridge. 

To the north of the burgh two estates infringed, the larger being Garscube, which remains largely intact today. Originally owned by the Lennox family, in 1250 it had passed to the Colquhouns, who retained it until 1681 when it was purchased by John Campbell of Succoth. This family was to retain ownership until 1947 when it passed to the University of Glasgow. During the period of the burgh the Campbells of Succoth were seen as the local lairds, having Garscube as their principal residence. 

Sir Ilay Campbell of Succoth (1734 - 1823)  by David Martin

Probably the best known of the Campbells of Succoth was Sir Ilay, who rose to become Lord Advocate in 1790 and was one of the most influential men in Scotland at this time. During their occupancy, they provided support for several Maryhill institutions. Lady Elizabeth, wife of Ilay’s grandson Sir Archibald, provided small pensions for several impecunious local residents. The following Lady Campbell, wife of Sir George, went further by financing the building of a cottage hospital, a building that survives today at 2024 Maryhill Road. 

Inevitably there came a point where the Campbells were no longer able to maintain their position at Garscube and, in 1947, it was sold off to the University of Glasgow, the Maryhill section today being occupied by the Science Park, where space satellites are designed for international customers. 

The final estate is Killermont, the bulk of which forms the golf course, with its magnificent Georgian clubhouse. In the early 16th century it had belonged to Sir John Cunningham but, after several other owners, in 1747 it passed into the hands of Lawrence Colquhoun. This family remained in charge throughout the 19th and early 20th century, having changed their name to Campbell-Colquhoun when the estate descended through the female line. Although their contribution to Maryhill was less, they did finance the building of the second Parish School and a later extension, this being on the site of the present Maryhill Parish Church.  Originally, all of the estate had been on the western side of the Kelvin but at one point the area known as Sandyflats on the Maryhill side was purchased from the Grahams of Gairbraid. Today a large part of this area is occupied by the Riding for the Disabled Equestrian Centre. 

The author of this essay is a retired training manager who carries out research into less well known areas of local history in Glasgow and the West of Scotland. As a Maryhill native he has a particular interest in the history of the area and, especially, that of the old police burgh up until 1891. These essays are taken from the research notes that have been drawn up over a period of years and are intended as an introduction which can be used by those seeking more information.

Maryhill Burgh Halls Trust want to thank William Black for his incredible support throughout the years, having shared all his in-depth research and snippets since the start of the Trust’s journey into the history of the Burgh. We are also very grateful for allowing us to post his wonderful essays to our blog. This is the second one of the series, you can read the first one on shipbuilding by clicking here.

Shipbuilding in the burgh of maryhill

Words by William B. Black

‘The Boatbuilder’ by Adam & Small (1878), Glasgow Museums

Situated some distance from the Clyde Maryhill may appear an unlikely situation for a shipbuilding yard but, during the 19th century it produced a significant number of vessels, both coastal and deep sea.

By May 1779 the Forth & Clyde canal had reached Stockingfield but further progress westwards had been suspended due to lack of funds. However, despite this, Robert McKell, the canal engineer, was instructed to obtain estimates for the construction of a graving dock at the western terminus. This did not proceed but, ten years later, with the canal again being driven towards the Clyde, it was revived. After crossing the Garscube Toll Rd, Maryhill Rd., the canal took a sharp turn west, then descend to cross the Kelvin. This left a short piece of land on the north side, on which the current engineer, Robert Whitworth, suggested the postponed dock could be built.

This was agreed and, by October 1789 it had been completed, access being via sluice gates on the north side of the circular basin between locks 22 and 23. The lock was 145 ft. (45 m.) long, 40 ft. (12 m.) wide at the top and 30 ft. (9 m.) at the bottom.  Flooding the dock was through vertical sluices in the dock gates, while draining was by gravity, a sluice on the west side giving access to a tunnel which ran through to discharge into the basin below lock 22. As the normal lock chambers in the canal were 70 ft. (22 m.), this meant that two vessels could be handled simultaneously within the dock. 

Initially the intention was that the dock would be used for repair and maintenance of craft operating on the canal and the first tenant was John Drysdale, from Carronshore. He was provided with a house but no salary, being expected to obtain his income from the charges made for working on boats, less the docking fee to be paid to the canal company. Although referred to as Gairbraid Dock initially, within six months it was renamed Kelvin Dock, the name it has retained since. Concentrating on completion of the canal the management failed to decide the docking fees properly and, after complaints about high prices, revised them in consultation with Drysdale and Nichol Baird, the canal surveyor.

The first vessel built at Kelvin Dock was a wooden icebreaker, which was completed by November 1790 and used to keep the waterway free during the winter. Drysdale struggled for most of his tenancy, being required to seek financial support from the canal management in 1795. Much of his work continued to be repairs and maintenance, although he did build one brigantine of 38 tons, named James and, in February 1800, Baird had his tenancy revoked. This action may not have been objective as the new tenants were his sons Hugh and Robert, already operating a small woodyard and foundry at Hamiltonhill. During Drysdale’s tenancy he did not have a monopoly on canal repair work but this was given to the Baird brothers. For which they paid an annual rent of £50. They did not operate the dock directly, employing a shipwright named Thomas Morrison to do so, who lived in the house vacated by Drysdale. This had an interesting clause in its lease, the occupants being required to provide ale ‘at any hour’ for persons transiting the canal. This building stood below the White House, close to the site occupied today by a bungalow.

Morrison built at least four vessels, while working for Baird, including Morning Star of 1813, one of the track boats that ferried passengers on a daily service from Glasgow to Port Downie, for transfer to coaches to journey on to Edinburgh. When Thomas died in 1816, his son John took over the management, before obtaining the tenancy a few years later. There no records of ships being built before Morrison indicated in 1836 that failing health would require him to retire. His place was taken by David Swan Jr, whose family had been operating a shipyard at Blackhill on the Monkland Canal since 1827 and the dock entered a new phase in its history.

Portrait of David Swan Jr

Swan was an ambitious man, who was to become the driving force in the creation of the burgh of Maryhill in 1856. His first new build was the cutter Cyclops, a cutter built for James McNair of Greenock, followed by a range of coastal schooners and by 1841 he was employing eleven carpenters, plus eight apprentices. West of the dock he established a timber yard, importing ready cut wood from Norway against opposition from other local merchants.

However, after a slow start, Swan’s timber business prospered and he diversified into the importation of ice, also from Scandinavia.  When the dissenters of Maryhill were forced to leave the parish church in 1847, Swan offered the use of the covered sawpit as a temporary place of worship, leading to its being dubbed ‘Maryhill Cathedral.’

The Swan family had retained the use of the Blackhill yard but, increasingly, there was an interchange with Maryhill. The youngest brother, William had joined the timber business, although his inclination was towards engineering, while the other pair, John and Robert, concentrated on shipbuilding and David increased his involvement in the timber business. His son, also David, had moved to Australia and, when gold was discovered there, the elder David seized another opportunity. He built several schooners to his own account. Manned them locally, including several shipwrights, who wished to emigrate and, loaded with cargo, also purchased by Swan, set off for Melbourne. All of these vessels were no more than 66 ft. (20 m) long, yet travelled safely halfway round the world, before being sold, along with their cargo, on arrival. All of them continued to serve along the Australian coast for several years, a testament to the quality of Maryhill shipbuilding. 

Following the introduction of the two younger brothers to the yard, construction of iron hulled vessels became the norm, including a lighter for the canal owners, named Thomas.  Since Charlotte Dundas had sailed past Stockingfield in 1803 steam navigation on the canal had stuttered but, in 1857, it took a serious step forward. A simple steam engine, powering through a stern screw, was fitted to Thomas at Hamiltonhill and proved successful, so it was agreed to pursue the matter further. The Glasgow shipowner, William Sloan & Co received inducements to order three vessels from Kelvin Dock, designed to transport materials through the canal. The first of these was the Glasgow, launched in November 1857 and considered the first production version of the steam lighter, better known to everybody in the West of Scotland as the puffer.

Although the dock could handle vessels up to 150 ft. (46 m.,) the lock lengths limited hull lengths to 66 ft. (20 m.,) preventing the Swans to build the larger sea going and coastal vessels now becoming common. This was overcome by the simple expedient of constructing them in sections, then floating them down to Bowling, where they were joined together.  This led to a witticism that suggested Kelvin Dock was building ships 9 miles long, their bows being in Maryhill and sterns in Bowling. In addition, it resulted in the publication of a little poem in the Dumbarton Herald of 18th August 1878, more McGonnigle than Burns:

Ships are built here of breadth of beam

To meet the merchant’s view

Seagoing ships for sails or steam

Down to Rob Roy canoes

Big ones are built Yankee style

A mile or so, as fits

And then (methinks I see you smile)

Cut off and launched in bits

To enable the building of more than two sections, an additional slipway was built on the opposite side of the basin, adjacent to the dock. Then the opportunity arose to obtain a better site than Bowling for the connection of the sections, the defunct shipyard of Morton, Wylde & Co at Dumbarton being obtained in 1871. Robert had died suddenly in 1860 but John and William continued under the original name, transferring construction of the larger vessels to Dumbarton after it was obtained. By now competition from larger yards on the Clyde was becoming more serious and, in 1874, Dumbarton was given up. At the same time others were entering the trade of puffer building, notably J & J Hay at Kirkintilloch and William Burrell and Son at Hamiltonhill, both former customers at Kelvin Dock.

August 1878 saw another first, with the simultaneous launch of two small steamers, Cartsburn & Cartsdyke. However, by this time the Swan connection was coming to an end, John retiring in the same year. A spelter works had been built on the west bank of the canal, opposite the yard, initially to provide fittings for the new vessels. It does not appear to have prospered for very long, although it was run by David Swan Jr., son of the founder of the business. Neither he nor William’s son, also David, appear to have taken any part in the shipyard and, when William retired in 1889, the direct family connection ceased. Andrew Marshall, William’s brother-in-law achieved control, retaining it until 1910, when it passed to Richard Munro Jr. & Co.

Kelvin Dock in 1943 by Francis Partick Martin, Glasgow Museums

During World War 1 the yard was taken into the control of the Inland Water Transport Department, being used mainly to convert scows to carry oil to Grangemouth. Post war, like most of the shipbuilding industry, Kelvin Dock suffered from lack of work, the last puffers being built there being the Kype and Logan of 1921. William McNichol had been the yard manager for many years, having succeeded his father, Charles in the post. Along with his brother, another Charles, who was a shipwright, they took over control of the yard in 1921, concentrating mainly on repair work. They built two steel hulled yachts and, produced a design for a two ton vessel in 1937, but nothing more came out of the yard at this period. With the return of war in 1939 the yard became involved in naval work and at some point, much of the dock was covered in, allowing work to continue through the night. By 1943 there were 200 men working at the yard, producing small landing craft, in preparation for the invasion of Europe. Post war the yard did not recover, being closed in 1939 and becoming a repository for various wrecks and derelicts until the canal closed in 1962. With the reopening of the canal the area round the dock has been refurbished and landscaped, the latter removing the last traces of the old slipways. New gates were erected at the mouth of the dock but, without sluices and the original drain sluice not having been reinstated, the dock cannot be brought into operation once more.

As well as Kelvin Dock, a second small shipyard operated for a brief period at Firhill, just east of the later site of Shaw & McInnes’ foundry and just inside the burgh boundary. This was opened by two shipwrights, Robert Ferguson and James McIntyre, in 1957, using a kidney shaped inlet on the north side of the timber basin, with an adjacent sawpit. They built four vessels before going out of business in 1867, the last being a composite hulled yawl Christina Ferguson, the only vessel of this hull construction completed on the canal. Today there is no visible trace of this short-lived venture. 

The author of this essay is a retired training manager who carries out research into less well known areas of local history in Glasgow and the West of Scotland. As a Maryhill native he has a particular interest in the history of the area and, especially, that of the old police burgh up until 1891. These essays are taken from the research notes that have been drawn up over a period of years and are intended as an introduction which can be used by those seeking more information.

Maryhill Burgh Halls Trust want to thank William Black for his incredible support throughout the years, having shared all his in-depth research and snippets since the start of the Trust’s journey into the history of the Burgh. We are also very grateful for allowing us to post his wonderful essays to our blog. This is just one of many, there will be more to come.

Fine Dining in Maryhill Burgh Halls - A Reflection and Random Thoughts

Words by John Thomson

A Maryhill Dinner, 1908

When we think of eating out in Maryhill these days we may associate it with exquisite chips and colourful curries, but once upon a time when you wanted an all male dinner to celebrate something big, then there was only one place to go – the big hall of Maryhill Burgh Halls, or its predecessor.

And, yes, in those days these dinners were ‘all male’ and relatively formal, but they are part of the history of the Halls so let’s take a culinary journey back in time.

Let’s begin with 25th January, 1858 - ‘a notable evening in Maryhill… when a large number of inhabitants met in the newly erected Burgh Hall, Main Street….to partake of cake and wine’ – and the reason for the celebration? It was the marriage of the Princess Royal of Great Britain to Prince Frederick of Prussia, eldest son of the Crown Prince William. There’s not much in the newspapers of the time about the official celebration but that may be because no-one checked when the public houses closed that night. After all, it was an area where often, on a Saturday night, a ruction would be got up ‘when a few of the bhoys got some shebeen whiskey’ and I’m sure that would have been well shared.

The following year was much different in terms of celebrations. It wasn’t a royal occasion but it was the centenary of the birth of ‘our national poet, Robert Burns and the Hall was decked out with flags, evergreens, &c. and about 100 gentlemen sat down to dinner’.

‘This 25th of January was always reckoned and spoken of as the great red letter day in the Burgh and the few still surviving (1894) who were present at the banquet that evening look back with pleasing memories of the bright and happy social meeting.’  

There’s little written about what was eaten and a menu of one of the dinners would be good but special occasions in those days deserved special foods and amongst the most popular were the likes of mulligatawny soup followed by saddle of mutton (where the saddle was hung for ten days covered all over in flour, suspended over a hot fire and served very hot with red currant jelly).

For pudding? How about a ‘conservative pudding’ which was a steamed pudding made with sponge cake, ratafias, macaroons, rum, cream, preserved cherries and served with a simple syrup flavoured with laurel leaf and almond. (gailcarriger.com)

But the good burghers did not always meet to celebrate prominent anniversaries and major events. There was a wide range of institutions and societies in the area, including The Kelvindock Curling Club, whose annual dinners included ‘corned beef and greens, with a goodly number of etceteras. Then followed plenty of ‘reekin’ toddy, songs, toasts and stories’ and the festive band ‘toddled hame between the key-stone o’ night and the wee short hour, unco’ happy.’

One other prominent society of the time was the Agricultural Society which organised an annual cattle and horse show. It was held in a small field adjoining Bonville House and the road leading to Dawsholm Paper Works. However, it later ceased to exist but it does offer a different feel to the Maryhill of tenements, workshops and hostelries that we often associate with that period.  

Now, the photograph that accompanies this feature is taken from the Halls’ archives but all it offers in terms of a date is just 1908. However, when, earlier on, I spoke of ‘all male’, this is what I meant. Look at the moustaches; look at how they’re all dressed; and look at how well they fill the hall.

However, there was a dinner that took place in November 1909 that was covered in the Glasgow Herald and which gives an idea of the serious topics that could be covered at these dinners. This was ‘the eighth annual dinner of the Old Maryhill Neighbourly Society’ and ‘despite the unfavourable nature of the weather’ nearly 200 people attended. The dinner was presided over by Sir Archibald S.L. Campbell of Succoth with Cllr Walter Nelson as croupier. Now the job of croupier at a public dinner was nothing to do with roulette and blackjack but was to assist the chairman (as it would have been in those days) with running the dinner.

Amongst the guests were Lord Provost McInnes Shaw and Colonel William Lamont whose job it was to acknowledge the toast to the ‘Imperial Forces’ when it was given. It was all very formal but three things leap out from reading the article which are of interest to us today.

One, according to the Lord Provost, was the improvement to the district of Maryhill since the amalgamation with Glasgow had taken place. The second, interesting in these environmentally friendly days, was concern about purification of the air, particularly in Lambhill, where there were ‘large chimneys belching forth smoke’ but Glasgow had no control over these and wouldn’t until there was an amalgamation (Applause),’ The final suggestion was that Glasgow should ‘purchase the harbour tunnel in order to give Govan more direct communication with the city (Applause)’. Still no word of what they ate but ‘other toasts were submitted during the evening.’ It sounds like it might have been a long night. 

And then the final dinner in this random selection took place immediately after ‘the war to end all wars had ended’ (WWI) - except more wars were to follow - but this would explain the importance of the first toast to ‘The Imperial Forces’, as had been offered in 1909 when the nation was still recovering from the Boer Wars but with WWI on the horizon, and the ‘toast was enthusiastically pledged, the company joining heartily in the singing of Rule Britannia.’ Mr James Menzies then contributed with a comic song and the evening moved on.

There were a few other toasts including ‘Success to Maryhill’ which began by recognising the importance of the Gairbraid Estate and the Hill family, moved on through recollections of the celebration of the wedding of the, then, Prince of Wales in 1863 which saw ‘illumination and fireworks’ and ‘the front of the old Burgh Buildings was beautifully decorated and in the centre was the coat of arms of the Prince of Wales all lit up with gas.’

But, as well as all these toasts, the evening – and it seems a long one – had various interludes when people like Mr P. A. Menzies and Parish Councillor A.M. Horne both contributed songs and. at one point, Mr D. M. Alexander ‘told a story that created heavy laughter’ but there is no more information on what was involved in that entertainment.

However, before I finish as I’m beginning to get a wee bit hungry with all this talk of dinners, one of the other things that caught my eye was discussion as to whether the Tramway Committee should run cars down to the shores of Loch Long, and probably erect a bridge to link up Ardgoil with the city!

Why was this even a topic for discussion? Well, it had ‘practically been settled that a new road or boulevard (was) to be formed from Anniesland to Bowling’ but there was also recognition of the need for social reform ‘which embraces the housing problem and cross-river communication.’.

So, four dinners, all of which took place within the Maryhill Burgh Halls (or its predecessor) and, within all the wining and dining, there was still time to consider the needs of the community and after dinner conversations which still have an effect on us today – over one hundred years later.

I’d like to thank Maryhill Burgh Halls archives for their help with this article and Random Notes and Rambling Recollections of Drydock, the Dock or Kelvindock. All Now Known by the Modern Name of Maryhill. 1750-1894 by Alexander Thomson which is available online.

Building Maryhill Burgh Halls in 1876-1878

Words by Aurora Segnan

Stonework detail by Charles B Grassby on the facade of Maryhill Burgh Halls.

Maryhill Burgh Halls Trust has been taking care of the building for twelve years.  

From the regeneration project, which gave new life and shape to the Halls, to the everyday maintenance jobs, we work with many contractors with different specialisms and knowledge. But what was it like back in the day? The Glasgow City Archives may have some answers! 

Last year we visited the Mitchell Library and found archival material relating to the construction of the building from 1878. What we know today as the Burgh Halls complex was then divided into two separate areas referred to as the ‘Public Hall’ and ‘Police Station. However, the Maryhill Burgh minutes from the years we are interested in have long been lost, which means we cannot dive too deeply into the construction process.   

By the 1870s, Maryhill had been an independent Police Burgh for about twenty years. It had its own six elected magistrates (called ‘police commissioners’) who took care of lighting, paving, cleansing, and the water and gas supplies. Initially based in a building in Fingal Street, by autumn 1874 the Burgh Commissioners bought the land at the corner of Wyndford Street (the old name for Maryhill Road) and Gairbraid Avenue to create a larger space in line with the needs of a growing population and busier burgh. That particular piece of land still belonged to Mary Hill’s descendants and was tenanted by a John Keir, a cattle dealer with five acres of land to work on. As soon as it became available, the piece of land was recognised as being the perfect location for the new municipal buildings of the Burgh. 

Six architects were invited to a competition to design the new Burgh buildings with Duncan McNaughtan (1845-1912) becoming the eventual winner. The complex costed an exorbitant £15,000 and it took just about two years to complete. The construction started in mid-1876 with senior magistrate James Shaw laying the foundation and officially opened on 26th April 1878. 

The Glasgow City Archives have a wonderful document from circa 1878 which lists all the contractors who were ultimately selected to complete the works with individual costs. The document is called ‘’Statement of Amounts of Accounts for Municipal Building + Public Hall at Corner of Wyndford Street and Gairbraid Avenue’’. We are still to conduct any in-depth research into the companies, but most contractors were found in the local Post Office directory. What we get is a fantastic insight into the individuals who contributed to create the iconic Maryhill Burgh Halls and into the manufacturing industry in Glasgow as a whole. Only one manufacturer appears to be from outside the city and Scotland, with the kitchen furniture coming from Sheffield.  

From some quick research into newspapers of the time, we also found that some of the companies worked on multiple projects together and on other recognisable buildings in the city. For example, the slaters Mackay worked with painter Andrew Wells in the Struthers Memorial Church (then Belhaven) in Hyndland. Similarly, Wells worked with Adam & Small on the Albert Street United Presbyterian Church in Townhead. Another particularly interesting individual is Hull-born sculptor Charles Benham Grassby (1834-1910) who did some stone carving all over the city, including on the old Glasgow Herald building in Buchanan Street and on the old BBC offices in Queen Margaret Drive. Grassby’s detailed work on the Burgh Halls can be seen here.

One final note about Andrew Wells is that he is a decorative painter. In his contract there’s a breakdown of his work which details that the official rooms of the commissioners were ornate with stencilled friezes. Coincidentally, some decoration in the Main Hall can be seen in a photograph of an Old Maryhill dinner dated 1908. At the very back, above the wooden balcony, there’s a decorative freeze and some writing – the only words we can discern are ‘literature’ and ‘mining’. Sadly, we haven’t replicated any of that today.

Below is a table copied from the GCC Archive’s document with added information about the company or traders taken from post office directories from the same years. Please let us know if you have any interesting information about any of the traders. 

MARYHILL BURGH HALLS CONTRACTORS, 1878

Job	Contractor	Address	Notes	Cost
Mason Work	J & W Murray	197 Gaibraid Street	John Murray, Rockview House, Maryhill (contractor, quarrymaster, brickmaker)	£5058 4s 9d
Digging Work	James Elder	209 St Vincent Street	James Elder, 3 South Apsley Place (civil engineer, surveyor) - Burgh surveyor, 1880-1887	£327 10s 10d
Wright	Archibald MacFarlane	38 Arlington Street	Archibald Macfarlane, 40 Arlington Street (wright, builder)	£2,470
Slating Work	A & D Mackay	35 Oswald Street	Daniel Mackay, 296 St Vincent St (slater, slate merchant) & Alexander Mackay, St Andrews Road, Pollokshaws (slate merchants)	£315 10s
Plumbing	Nevay & Menzies	121 Main Street	Alexander Nevay, 152 Main Street (plumber, gasfitter) & Robert Menzies, 8 Kingston Place (plumber)	£380 14s 9½d
Plasterering	James Steel Junior	65 Bath Lane	James Steel Jr, 56 Hill Street (modeller, plasterer)	£743 8s 10d
Smith Work	James Croll	200 & 202 Rottenrow	James Croll, 1 North Ure Place (smith, machine maker)	£255 7s 1d
Stone Carving	Charles B Grassby	37 Bothwell Street	Charles B Grassby, 38 Belmont Place, Hillhead (monumental builder, sculptor)	£96 14s 6d
Gasfitting	R.C. Murray	4,7,9 Carlton Court, Bridge Street	manufacturing, tinsmith, coppersmith, plumber, zinc worker, gasfitter, bellhanger, hotel/ship/street lamp maker	£54
Painting	Andrew Wells	206 West George Street	Andrew Wells, 13 Nelson Terrace, Hillhead (house and church decorator)	£160
Tiling	Strathie, D. & Co	193 Sauchiehall Street	David Strathie, 42 Cambridge Street (mosaic and encaustic paving tile layers and wall decorators; depot for Minton, Hollins & Co, patent flooring and encaustic tiles)	£29 10s
Heating & Ventilation	James Combe & Sons	59 Cathedral Street	William Combe, 22 Dundas Street (heating and ventilating engineers, hot-house builders)	£250 4s
Glass	Adam & Small	201 St Vincent Street	Stephen Adam, 4 Cathkin Terrace, Mount Florida (glazier, glass-stainer, decorator)	£150
SUNDRIES
Grates, Gasalier & Coronae	James Brown	not found		£93 4s 3d
Gasalier	James Gray, Son & Co	115 Union St & 51 Gordon St	(furnishing ironmongers, electro plates and cutlery merchants)	£46
Furniture	Alexander Cree & Co	34 Bothwell Street/75 Port Street	Alexander Cree, 30 St Vincent Crescent (upholsterers, cabinetmaker)	£120
Venetian Blinds	Falconer & McKinnon	112 Bothwell Street	D. Falconer (449 St Vincent Street)	£32 10s
Street Lamps	Turner Brothers	119 & 121 Bothwell Street	Budhill Iron Works of David Turner (148 Bellfield Street)	£55
Kitchen Furnishing	Longden & Co	15 Furnace Hill, Sheffield	Based at Phoenix Foundry (iron funders, manufacturers of stove grates, cooking and heating apparatus, stair balusters, fence railing, case hardened and grain rolls, and castings for heavy mill work)	£27
Beams for Main Staircase	Oak Foundry	Black Street	architectural ironfounders, sanitary engineers	£3
Wood Mantlepiece	Angus Mckay	43 Robertson Lane	Cabinetmaker	£8 10s
Chairs	Alexander & Howell	108 St Vincent Street	Art house furnishing of William Alexander (Elmbank, Lenzie) & Edward Howell (Inglebank, Lenzie)	£13 6s

Maryhilll Burgh Halls is a wonderful and incredible asset, representative of the unique history of the local Burgh. It’s more than bricks and mortar - they are expression of Maryhill’s own identity, belonging and pride in this fantastic area. If you wish to support us as we keep taking care of the Halls, you can donate at this link or at the donation boxes located at reception.

The Statement of Accounts is held at the Mitchell Library by Glasgow City Archives and is referenced as H-MAR/5/54. This is just one of the documents connected to the Burgh years that is in safekeeping at the archives, there’s still a lot to discover about the wonderful Maryhill! 

Thank you so much to the archivists at Glasgow City Archives who are always very helpful and patient. 

John Turnbull: A Maryhill Police OffIcer

Words by John Thomson

Maryhill came into being as a burgh in 1856 but it was already a flourishing township with workmen coming from all over to work on the expanding Forth and Clyde Canal. It was a raucous place and badly needed a police force to control its expansion. It got one that year as  part of the Glasgow Police Force which was the first in the United Kingdom – even before the Metropolitan Police was formed. Its first home was opened in 1857 at the corner of Maryhill Road and Fingal Street and included a flat on the upper floor for the Superintendent of Police – ‘The Captain’ George Anderson.

Police Station before the Maryhill Burgh Halls Regeneration

But the Maryhill Police Force needed a bigger home and in 1878, with the building of Maryhill Burgh Halls, it got one. However, it wasn’t until 1972 that ‘rookie cop’, John Turnbull passed through its door as PC F227 for a busy career mostly spent in Maryhill until retirement, having joined the police force at the age of 19. He had been an electrician who had always wanted to join the police but was in a steady trade. However, a building strike at that time gave him the impetus he needed and he followed the steps of a pal in becoming a policeman.

Maryhill was a territory he knew well as he stayed in Trossachs Street and, in recent conversation with volunteer John Thomson, he shared his memories of the old police station – now part of the refurbished Maryhill Burgh Halls – in a Maryhill Road he described as ‘all tenement buildings up and down and with such a busy shopping area there was no need to go into town’.

The conversation started with a flashback in time and a tour of what used to be Maryhill Police Station before it moved to its new location at 1380 Maryhill Road in 1978. Coffees were shared in the Nolly Café which became the centrepiece of the ‘tour’ and John began by looking at the modern Halls reception area.

‘There was a door over there on the left hand side (at the reception area) with a large archway and there were stairs that took you up to CID. Where we’re sitting (by a window looking onto Gairbraid Avenue) was next to the telephonists’ room and the café itself was the main office with a charge bar and control room with the controller supervising what was happening. The main door to the public would have been where the museum windows are and that door would bring them to the reception, where we are. Community Involvement was also here as was the Enquiry Unit which checked licences for guns among other things and then there were stairs going up to the cells. There was about six of them and they were under the rule of the female turnkey who also had the responsibility of cooking breakfast for the prisoners before they went to court or other police stations. If there were people in the cells in the evening, then maybe she’d cook something more substantial like mince and tatties.

‘There were kennels in the courtyard but no police dogs were kept there. They were for stray dogs and any stolen, but recovered, cars or cars which were seized by the police for other reasons, were kept in a yard. Next door to CID was a janitor who also washed the police cars but on a Sunday we had to wash the cars ourselves and we had to really gut them out.

‘Through the courtyard was the snooker room and some other small offices. Our muster room was in the hall itself and we had to parade in the yard and there was a room for policewomen who, in those days mostly dealt with lost children and things like that. Mind you there were times when the very presence of a policewoman could quell a situation whereas a policeman might go in headstrong; ‘Right you, you’re going to jail’ – making the situation worse.’

But that was the police station. What was life actually like out on the beat?

John was mostly based down at Raeberry Street Police Box and the police boxes were important as they were seen as a police presence in the area.

‘People were drawn to them with complaints about street football and car parking. It was an important place for keeping records, such as the Shut Up House book which was a record of when people were away on holiday so you’d keep an eye on their property. That personal touch was important.’    

But was it always as straightforward as that?

Two officers with a Stratchlyde police car Ford Capri, 1977. [Source]

‘At that time, when you’d finished your shift you’d put your radio into a locked box in the Police Box and head back to the office. One night I was heading back up Maryhill Road and I got to Queen’s Cross and the paper seller at the corner of Northpark Street had a crowd round him and they started shouting at me – obscenities and what not – but I didn’t have a radio with me because I’d put it in the locked box but I went across anyway and told them to calm down and to behave themselves and move on and one of them pulled a knife on me.

‘So I stepped back and walked slowly and deliberately back down to the box and phoned for assistance. However, by the time, assistance arrived, they’d dispersed. Mind you. We got them later……..

‘But that was the done thing. The others watching your back and you watching theirs. If you put out a call, you would have umpteen cars attending that call for assistance. Same with housebreakings or anything like that. I’ve seen me sitting in the car, just waiting to go into the office for refreshments and I’d get a call and it was straight back out.’

On another occasion John and a colleague were in their car and they were chasing a stolen vehicle.

‘The car slowed down and the lad bailed out and he ran through the back and I chased after him. But then, as he ran through the back, I just saw his legs going up in the air and he landed on his back. What had happened was he had ran into a clothes line round his neck that nearly took his head off.’

Hoist not so much by his own petard but by a Maryhill backcourt clothesline.

John, at one time a promising boxer, took retirement as a police constable from the now Strathclyde Police Force in July 2003, but came back in various capacities such as a station assistant up at Milngavie and as a Community Support Officer covering custody in various police stations, before eventually standing down in September, 2018. Maybe you can take the man out of the police force but not the police force out of the man.

The conversation took place during the recent exhibition of photos of old Maryhill taken by George Ward and after the chat with John, he stood in front of the video screen showing some of George’s cine footage. His impression of the halls? ‘Fantastic, and I met a few people who had stayed in Raeberry Street and we chatted for a while. Maryhill has lost its core but the people haven’t changed much. You still get all the friendly faces.’

Thanks for the conversation PC John Turnbull (F227) and you’re welcome back at Maryhill Burgh Halls any time.

The Collina House Mystery

Words by Elinor Abbott

Colina House or Collina Cottage?  

Discover the mystery of Colina House - an exquisite property captured in family photos from the early 1900s. Follow our search for answers as we uncover the story of Maryhill's first provost, David Swan, and the possibility of his family's connection to the elusive Collina Cottage.

Stuart contacted Maryhill Burgh Halls, hoping we could help him find information on a cache of family photos showcasing early twentieth-century locations in Maryhill. These pictures had already undergone some research, which Stuart had done himself, aided by family mementoes and tokens.

The wedding invitation was particularly interesting to Stuart, which indicated the wedding was to take place at "Colina House". What was Colina House? And where was it? There were several photos of a bride standing in both the foyer and front steps of a large and nicely turned-out house. There was also a photo of a woman in a wide-brimmed hat, standing by a fountain at "Colina House". Stuart wondered if perhaps his family had worked in service, as he didn't think they had owned property back then. An old map he found indicated there was at one time, a building called "Collina" in Maryhill, where Collina Street is now.

Looking into the origin of Collina House, we discovered that Maryhill's first provost (similar to a mayor), David Swan, lived in a home called Collina Cottage, built around 1858. This home is described in an ordnance survey from that period as "A superior Cottage commanding a view of the whole of Maryhill." Could this be the same Collina House that Stuart's family's photos indicated?

Doing map regression work shows that Collina Cottage, the one built by the Swan's, remained on local maps until 1933, at which point it disappeared. Stuart's photos would have been taken around the late teens/early 1920s. Housing ownership records did not turn up anything which indicated to who the Swan's may have sold Collina Cottage to, as that family relocated to Perthshire around 1907. There is a document which states a "Janet Ferguson" owned Collina Cottage in 1895, but this may be the married name of Janet Swan, daughter of David Swan, it is hard to say. Collina was certainly an important name to the Swan family, shipbuilders, who built a ship called the Collina (also called the Corie) in 1862.

Looking closer at Stuart's photographs of his family in the early twentieth century, it was noted that they did not have the appearance of servants, they were smartly dressed in a number of photographs, particularly one in which they are crowded around Isabella S.B Dunlop (née Bryce), Stuart's great grandmother, outside a stately home, perhaps the same one from the wedding and fountain photographs.

Though it is generally more difficult to find information about women than men when looking at historical records, Isabella S.B Dunlop (1850-1927) left behind many clues and questions when it came to Collina House. Isabella's full name was Isabella Sloss Bryce Dunlop, but another name came up when looking into records of her death. The National Probate Index of Scotland (a probate is what gives someone the legal right to the estate of another person and exists separately from a will) shows that Isabella also went by the name "Colina" (one 'L'). She willed what would be about £3,600 to her eldest daughter, Mary, in today's money.

Isabella's husband had been a blacksmith who owned the "Dunlop Forge." Isabella was widowed in 1921 and documents from this time show that she owned property on Hill Street, now called Duncruin Street, not far from Collina Cottage. This property was a workshop and ground house, at which a number of people lived and from which her son, Thomas, ran his carriage and horseshoe business, "Thomas B. Dunlop & Co." Was she living elsewhere? Was she also perhaps the owner of what was Collina Cottage, now called Colina House? We are waiting for the 1921 census to be released so we can explore who was living where.

The Dunlop Forge, Hill St.

Thomas B Dunlop & Co carriage company.

Isabella's two daughters also worked. Annie, Stuart's grandmother, was a ladies mantle maker, a mantle being a type of overcoat, and one of the most impressive photos Stuart provided to Maryhill Museum was of Annie at work. Images of women at the time working are quite rare. Annie's younger sister, Isabella, also worked in textiles as a cutter of undergarments.

Tailor Workshop. Annie is in the first row, second one to the right.

Annie was married on December 31st, 1920 at 135 Burnhouse Street, there is still a church in this location. This is listed as 'residence' on the marriage certificate, but this is likely the residence of the church where they were married, though the images of Annie being married were taken at the mysterious "Colina House". Stuart related that family lore states that Annie's wedding celebration at Colina House went on for two days. It seems unlikely that the Dunlop family would be able to celebrate for two days anywhere besides their own home. So it becomes less plausible that the Dunlops rented Colina House for the wedding. Stuart also related a memory passed down through his family of Colina House, having a path for boats that stretched from the house down to a dock on the canal. This also indicates that the Dunlops may have come into possession of Collina Cottage, as the Swans were shipbuilders.

Colina/Collina is an unusual word. In the case of the Swan family, it could be used to indicate the location of "Collina Cottage", on top of a hill overlooking Maryhill, as the word "Collina" means hill in Italian. However, that is conjecture and we don't know if the Swan family spoke Italian or had connections to Italy. In the case of the Dunlops, did they purchase Collina Cottage and live there while owning property on Duncruin Street, which they rented out? Was Isabella S.B Dunlop connected to Collina Cottage in some other way? Born there, perhaps? Or was it simply a coincidence? Strange, however, to have two homes, "Collina Cottage" and "Colina House" so close to each other during the same period of time, as well as for Isabella to have acquired the nickname 'Colina'. It's possible that Isabella fancied the name "Collina" and named her own home after it and subsequently acquired it as a nickname.

When the 1921 census is released, we hope we can discover more!

If you have any information about Collina House, please get in touch! info@mbht.org.uk

Maryhill and the ‘Ghost’ Junction

Words by a volunteer

If you have ever travelled westbound on the city centre section of the M8, you may have noticed a junction just before junction 17 that leads to a dead end. This ‘ghost’ junction is shown in the photograph below. Naturally, you may have wondered why such an, ostensibly, superfluous addition to the motorway had been constructed?

The answer to this question is directly linked to Maryhill. 

The ‘ghost’ junction on the M8 (The Scotsman)

The origins of the M8 motorway lie in the Bruce Report (or the First Planning Report to the Highways and Planning Committee of the Corporation of the City of Glasgow), which was published in 1945. The Bruce report was essentially a plan for the development of Glasgow which made several recommendations. Had it been implemented fully, central Glasgow would be very different from the central Glasgow that we know today.

For instance, the report recommended the demolition of Central Station, the Royal Infirmary, Glasgow City Chambers, and the Kelvingrove Museum, which did not go forward. However, one of the plan’s recommendations which was implemented was slum clearances and the construction of housing estates (such as Castlemilk, Drumchapel, and Easterhouse) on the periphery of Glasgow’s boundary.

Another of the plan’s recommendations, which was ultimately only partially implemented, was the construction of a box shaped inner Glasgow ring road (encircling Glasgow city centre) connected to several arterial motorways that were to run through four corners of the city.

Completed in 1972, the city centre section of the M8 forms the first half of the circumference of the proposed ring road. One of the arterial motorways was to connect the ring road to a motorway that would run through west of the city. This motorway would have run through Maryhill and was to be named the M81. The now ghost junction would have been the connection between the M8 and Maryhill.

When the plans for the Maryhill motorway were being drawn up, the Forth and Clyde canal was closed to navigation. Part of the route the Maryhill Motorway was to be built on the route of the canal, with the canal being diverted through underground pipes so that local industrial activity that relied of the water suppled by it could continue.

The two images below show the southern portion of the proposed motorway and the northern section of the proposed motorway respectively. The southern section was to connect with the city centre section of the M8 between junction 16 and 17. The plans for the southern section include slip roads on Possil Road and Bilsland Drive. The northern section would have left the route of the canal of Stockingfield lock. It also curved around the, then in the planning stage, Summerston residential development.

Southern Section (Glasgow Motorway Archive)

Northern Section (Glasgow Motorway Archive)

Consultation with the local public took place during the design phase of the Maryhill motorway. For example, a public meeting took place at Woodside Hall on the 26th of October 1972 that was attended by officials from Glasgow Corporation and elected representatives, whilst a public exhibition took place in Methodist Central Hall between the 24th of October 1972 and 28th of October 1972 that was attended by more than 3,300 people.

This public participation influenced the design of the motorway. However, strong opposition to the Maryhill Motorway from residents of Maryhill resulted in plans for its construction to be cancelled in 1975. Interestingly, the local protests included songs, protest marches and public petitions.

Do you have any memories of the Maryhill motorway plan? Were you in favour or did you take part in any protests?

Much more information about the Maryhill Motorway can be found on the website of the Scottish Roads Archive here.

City, people, and history: The connection between The Glasgow Police Museum and Maryhill Burgh Halls

Words by Hsiao-Chiang Wang and Yen-Ting Lin

Newspaper clipping from 1878 reported the completion of new municipal buildings in Maryhill. It begins with a positive statement about the future of the area: ‘Through the Burgh of Maryhill presents few attractions to the rambler in search of the picturesque, its development and dimensions exhibit many pleasing signs of progress.’ [Glasgow Police Museum]

Original Maryhill Police Station, 1857. [Glasgow Police Museum]

At the heart of Maryhill is Maryhill Burgh Halls, and its purpose has changed many times. The Burgh Halls building opened in 1878 as a community space, as well as a centre for policing and local governing. Maryhill Burgh Police station was located within the building, meaning the Halls were once central to the growth and development of the area. Since then, the area has continued to flourish and the local police office has moved to a different location. As the Burgh Halls has continued to develop and contribute to the community through the arts, heritage and culture over the last decade, perhaps its history as a police station has been forgotten.

However, it is interesting that both the Police and the Burgh Halls have set up museums with the intention to preserve the history and memories for the people, consequently allowing this knowledge to be available to the wider public. To date, the Maryhill Burgh Halls has continued to fulfil this duty, remaining a hub that commits to serving the community as its priority.

Travelling back to around 1850 , there was a time when there were serious riots occurring in Glasgow due to the pressure generated by the trade depression in Scotland, and the political upheaval in Europe. Likewise, the consequences of radical changes in the area- brought about by a large itinerant workforce through projects like the construction of the Glasgow & Dunbartonshire Railway- and rising crime rates, meant that there was a demand for a Maryhill Police Burgh and this was founded in 1856. At the time Maryhill became a Burgh, ‘The Captain’ George Anderson, was appointed as the first superintendent. The first Police station was opened in 1857 at the corner of Maryhill Road and Fingal Street. It not only provided space for a court and magistrate’s chambers, but also accommodation for the officers.

Moving forward a few decades, the expansion of the Maryhill Police Burgh force and the request for improvement of the space, triggered the movement to build a new Burgh Halls and Police Station. As a result, the new police station was established within the Burgh building on Gairbraid Avenue, off Maryhill Road. The original Maryhill Police Burgh force was subsequently merged into the force of Glasgow Police in 1891 and became the Maryhill Division..

Burgh Halls and Police Station, opened in 1878.

Current Maryhill Police Station, opened in 1978.

An interesting fact is there are unique connections, between the previous location of the police station and the development of the museums today, through some notable people. For example, Sir Alastair Dinsmor, the founder of the Glasgow Police Heritage Society, played multiple roles related to Maryhill throughout his career, and is known as the main founder, general director and leading curator of the Glasgow Police Museum. Investing in his hobby of collecting, he has developed a riveting record of being an enthusiastic collector of police memorabilia. He has been collecting items for more than 55 years and a few are from Maryhill Burgh Police. Coincidently, he was also previously an inspector who served in the Maryhill division.

Alastair introducing the police history of Maryhill. [Hsiao-Chiang Wang]

Bronze Medal of Citizen of Maryhill. [Hsiao-Chiang Wang]

Alastair joined the police force at age 16, serving as a policeman in Glasgow for 33 years, starting in 1965. He served in Maryhill between 1993 and 1997. From his perspective as a former policeman, Alastair notes that Maryhill is a vivid area that accommodates a mixture of backgrounds of people. Apart from his daily work such as crime prevention, riot training, and firearm management, he also needed to supervise sales in the alcohol trade. Thus, he had to visit Maryhill Burgh Halls to carry out this work locally.

Initially, he was interested in military history but after joining the police force, his passion turned to the history of policing and how it has evolved within society. Because of his interest in police history - and his motivation to create connections with other nations - he started the International Police Collection, with items dating from 1966.

Currently Alastair owns more than 8,000 items from countries all over the world. After retiring from the force, he founded the Glasgow Police Heritage Society in 1988. He led a project to establish the police museum in Glasgow between 2000 and 2002. Finally, the Glasgow Police Museum opened in May of 2002. The museum was run by retired police officer volunteers from the Society, and it is supported entirely by public donations. Despite not having a background in museum work, Alastair learned a plethora of skills for operating the attraction, including computer programming, collection management, and museum operation. The museum reaches out to the public through storylines and narratives via the richness of the objects on display, putting into action its mission of serving the community, in much the same way as Maryhill Museum does.

Figure 7 The world police collections in the Glasgow Police Museum. (Photo taken by Hsiao-Chiang)

In 2016, Alastair was presented with an MBE by Prince William at Buckingham Palace for his dedication to preserving history. In addition, the operation of the Glasgow Police Museum was acknowledged when it won the 'Best Day Out' award at the Glasgow Awards in 2019. These awards not only recognise the positive impact of the museum in the Glasgow community and its civic culture, but also emphasise the importance of growing as a cultural attraction. This resonates with the spirit of Maryhill Burgh Halls, and highlights the impact and goals of the museum. Maryhill residents past and present can share memories and insights of the past and write the stories of the future. Both Glasgow Police Museum and Maryhill Museum share an ethos of cherishing the achievements of the city, the people and the history of their communities.

The Curator Alastair and his MBE award. [Hsiao-Chiang Wang]

Bibliography

Black, B. (no date) ‘Maryhill-Police& Fire’.

Dinsmor, A. (no date) INTERNATIONAL POLICE COLLECTION. Available at: https://adintpolcol.tripod.com/ (Accessed: 17 December 2021).

Maryhill – Glasgow Police Museum (no date). Available at: http://www.policemuseum.org.uk/burgh-police/maryhill/ (Accessed: 17 December 2021).

Scottish Apprenticeship Week 2022: Digital Media

Words by Anna Fernie

Hi! I’m Anna, and as part of Scottish Apprenticeship Week, I’m sharing my experience as an apprentice at Maryhill Burgh Halls. But first, lets talk about Scottish Apprenticeship week.

This special week is dedicated to promoting apprenticeships in Scotland, and all the incredible opportunities they can bring. From engineering to working with children, there are almost no limits to the variety of apprenticeships available. On top of that, they allow you to work in the field you choose, rather than being stuck in a classroom! There are several types of apprenticeships available, making these accessible to all ages and experience levels. Interested? I hope so, as this week is the perfect time to check out the options available and peek at the events happening. Click here to find out more!

Anna’s design 1

Anna’s design 2

My own experience as an apprentice has been incredibly positive, and I have loved working at the Halls. Being able to go out and gain experience in my field has been great, and has additionally really benefited my CV. Personally, I am completing a Foundation Apprenticeship in Creative and Digital Media and have been on this work placement since September.

Anna’s flyer for the Glasgow Orchestral Society exhibition

During the time I’ve been working at the Halls, I’ve worked on many different projects, but mainly the social media posts that you have been seeing in the past months. Not only I came up with content to post, but I also developed the captions and worked on the visuals. I was also asked to create a video to celebrate the events and achievements of 2021! From taking photographs to produce ad hoc images, I had the opportunity to learn about several aspects of digital communications.

The most exciting project I have worked on at the Halls has to be our newest exhibition, Glasgow Orchestral Society: Celebrating 100 Years. With the help of the incredible people working here, I created the poster and graphic for the exhibition, and seeing my work getting used in a real-world context was amazing and extremely rewarding.

If you are interested in learning through experience, I would highly recommend checking out apprenticeships, and seeing what works for you. With this being the perfect week to do so, there is even more information and opportunities available, so don’t miss out!   

LGBT+ History Month: Reflecting on Glasgow

Words by Ian Perry

To celebrate LGBT+ history month, Maryhill Burgh Halls is reflecting on the progress of attitudes towards LGBTQ+ people in the surrounding area.  

Glasgow, as a whole, was known for its social conservatism and strict religious views that were often strongly against LGBTQ+ people, relationships, behaviour, and expression. Two years following the opening of the halls, the Criminal Law Amendment Act of 1885 made male same-sex sexual acts a criminal offence, which carried a two-year prison sentence. Nearly a century later, Scotland partially decriminalised homosexuality in 1980, however, attitudes generally take time to catch up. This is demonstrated succinctly in 80s pop outfit Bronksi Beat’s video to their hit Smalltown Boy:   

falsetto gay singer Jimmy Somerville is seen on a train, looking out the window at a passing urban scene, reminiscing about something that saddens him - we see a flashback of him admiring a chiselled, muscled straight guy, at a local swimming pool - he is beaten up by the guy and his pals in an alley outside - the police pick him up and take him home - as the policemen explain the reason for Jimmy's bruised face, his mother sobs, his father shakes his head and fists in disapproval, whilst Jimmy shamefully bows his head in their drab living room, resulting in him being kicked out of the family home, being slipped some cash, before boarding a train (the one from the beginning) with his pals and running away to the more queer-friendly big city of London.

Somerville undoubtedly used the bigotry he experienced growing up in his hometown of Milton, another working-class area of Glasgow, as the subject matter for the song and video, which depicted the kind of prejudice which was common in Glasgow during the 1980s. Prejudice was amplified nationwide in 1988 when Margaret Thatcher’s Conservative government introduced anti-gay policy in the form of Section 28 (or known as clause 2A in Scotland). The clause stopped local authorities from “intentionally promoting homosexuality” in any publicly-owned building, which included museums, galleries and libraries.  

During the 1990s, grassroots activist organisation Glasgow Women’s Library sprung up in Garnethill (now based in Bridgeton). They played a significant role - under the guise of The Lesbian Avengers - in actively repealing the clause. Despite opposition from “committed Christian” Stagecoach owner Brian Souter’s ‘Keep the Clause’ campaign, the clause was successfully repealed in 2000 in Scotland.  

Photograph of the Glasgow Lesbian Avengers holding the made banner ‘We Recruit’ and protesting with other placard ‘We Object’ against Section 28. Part of GWL’s archive collection. © Author’s own.

LGBTQ+ inequalities were polarised in Glasgow at the Gallery of Modern Art (GoMA) 2009 exhibition ‘sh[OUT]’. The exhibition had many pieces which stirred divisive debate and opinion; garnering a backlash from political and religious groups, and culminating in meetings between council members and the Archdiocese of Glasgow to censor the most controversial pieces. However, academics evaluating the exhibition found that it helped promote understanding of transgender and intersex equalities and rights, and they suggested this resulted in legislation like The Equality Act (2010) coming into effect.

Recently, Glasgow has seen a huge shift in attitudes and open-mindedness with regard to same-sex relationships and different gender expressions. A thriving LGBTQ+ nightlife and drag scene can be found all over the city; from big commercial venues Polo Lounge, AXM (formerly Bennett’s), and Delmonica’s, to new queer co-op venue Bonjour (opened in 2020, and formerly an old man’s pub), along with alternative, avant-guarde queer clubnights, such as Shoot Your Shot and Hot Mess. Maryhill itself has shown inclusivity by screening LGBTQ+ film favourites, such as John Waters’ Polyester, featuring drag legend Divine, at the Community Central Halls on Maryhill Road through Seaboard Neighbourhood Cinema in 2018. With Scottish Glasgow-based drag queen Lawrence Chaney being crowned the winner of the second series of RuPaul’s Drag Race UK in 2021, who’s next to claim the prize? A drag queen called Mary Hill, perhaps!

Glasgow Orchestral Society exhibition: Advertising the Society

Written by a volunteer

The Maryhill Museum is currently hosting an exhibition of archival material narrating the 150-years history of the Glasgow Orchestral Society.  

The Glasgow Orchestral Society was formed on the 29th of December 1870 as an amateur musical group. They have used Maryhill Burgh Halls as a venue for their weekly rehearsals since October 2011.  

The Museum was given of a significant number of artefacts from the Society but we did not have the space to display them all. This article discusses a series of documents that are not on display pertaining to late 19th century newspaper media output. 

During the 19th century and beyond, GOS utilized the print media of newspapers for publicizing forthcoming practice sessions and concerts. Various newspapers also printed reviews of the Society’s concerts.   

What follows is a selection of invoices from newspapers and the respective advertisements that I collected by researching the British Newspaper Archive database and the Mitchell Library collection.

Forthcoming practice session printed in ‘The Evening Citizen’, September 1889

Below is a receipt dated 9th September 1889 to James Hedderwick & Sons for an advertisement in The Evening Citizen. The payment amount was 10 shillings and 6 pence. The Evening Citizen was the evening edition of The Glasgow Citizen which was first published in August 1864 and was one of the first of three evening newspapers to be printed, published, and sold in the Glasgow. It ceased publication in 1974.

The advert, which is shown below, was printed in the ‘Notices’ section on the front page of the paper on the 10th of September 1889.

Forthcoming practice session printed in ‘The Glasgow Evening News’ , September 1889.

 Below is a receipt dated 9th September 1889 for an advertisement in ‘The Glasgow Evening News’. The advert is a notification for the same practice session as discussed above. The payment amount was 10 shillings. The Glasgow Evening News was founded as ‘The Glasgow Evening Post’ in 1866. It was named ‘The Evening News’ from 1915 onwards. The newspaper ceased publishing in January 1957.

The advert, shown below, was published in the ‘Clydeside Echoes’ section on page four of the paper on the 12th of September 1889.

Forthcoming Concert printed in ‘The Evening Times’, April 1890

The receipt shown below is dated 11th of April 1890 and is for payment of 3 shillings and 4 pence to George Outram & Co for an advertisement in ‘The Evening Times’.  George Outram and Co was the publisher and printer of ‘The Evening Times’, ‘The Glasgow Herald’, ‘The Bulletin’, and a number of weekly periodicals up until 1903 when it was incorporated as a limited liability company George Outram & Co Ltd which existed up until 2002. ‘The Evening Times’ and ‘The Glasgow Herald’ (now just ‘The Herald’) are still being published today by Newsquest Media Group Ltd. The Herald is the longest running national newspaper in the world.

The advertisement, shown below, appeared on the front page of the paper on Saturday the 12th of April 1890 in the ‘Entertainments’ section.

Forthcoming Concert and Review printed in ‘The Glasgow Evening News’, December 1893

Below is a letter dated 18th of December 1893 from the publishers of ‘The Glasgow Evening News’ in response to a letter from the Glasgow Amateur Orchestral Society informing the publishers of a forthcoming concert. The letter states where notification of the concert will be published and it also states that the newspaper will send a reporter to the concert.

Notification of the forthcoming concert, shown below, was indeed published in The Glasgow Evening News on the 18th of December 1893 in the ‘Local Musical Notes’ section on page 2.

A review of the concert, shown below, was published in page two of ‘The Glasgow Evening News’ on the 22nd of December 1893.

To see some of the documents of the invoice, or to learn more about the Glasgow Orchestral Society in the late Victorian age, visit us Monday to Friday from 10am to 5pm.

Tickets are free but booking is essential. Contact us at info@mbht.org.uk or 0141 948 0700.

Glasgow Orchestral Society exhibition: The Langfier Scandal

Words by Ruairi Hawthorne

*This topic has been researched as part of the Glasgow Orchestral Society exhibition.

Louis Langfier was a Polish photographer who operated in Glasgow, Edinburgh and London throughout the late 19th and early 20th centuries. While his date of birth is unknown, according to a 1901 census, he was living in London and was married to Pearl Langfier. He had two children: Eric and Iris who later claimed her father was a court appointed photographer. Indeed, his supposed list of clients is long and illustrious, from King George V to the King of Montenegro. However, despite his important place in history, very little is known about him, including his basic biographical dates of birth and immigration to Britain. It is only known that he came to Britain with his brother Adolf, whom he lived with for some time along with his family.

Langfier was a background player, always behind the camera, never in front of it. However, nearly 100 years after his death in 1925, it was uncovered through letters and journal entries that for a brief time, Louis was finally in the spotlight, at the centre of a scandal which he kicked off by simply taking the wrong photo of the wrong person.

The Glasgow Orchestral Society was founded in 1870 with the express purpose of bringing music and culture to their home city. The Society received praises but as amateurs they could never be fully appreciated by reviewers. They needed something to free them from the stigma of being amateurs and legitimize them as Glasgow's top orchestral society. Perhaps they decided that a professional photo could be just what they needed to overcome the negative perception of them as artless amateurs, and instead convey a sense of class and sophistication. And for that they sought best: Louis Langfier. To Langfier, this must have seemed like just another job in his long career. However, by accepting this job, he was indirectly starting a feud with the Orchestral Society, specifically one of its members.

Langfier’s invoice to GOS Director Mr Peacock, 1st July 1895

Officially, the Society hired Langfier to take a photograph of the group. In a letter displayed in the museum, the photographer details the nature of the commission, confirming the size in which the photograph will be printed and the type of plate in black and white. An invoice dated 1st July 1895 seals the transaction specifying the purchase of one group photograph at 7 shillings and 6 pence. However, through the letter of a Society’s member, it is understood that Langfier also took individual portraits of the amateur musicians during the session organised by the Society, but there’s no trail of documents in our possession testifying the organisation of these photographs. However, by reading what followed, it is clear that those would have been at the individual members’ expenses.

What is certain is that member Frederick Claasen was not satisfied with his portrait, saying he ‘‘hardly liked the twist in the mouth of one, and the posture of figure in the other’’ and demanded that Langfier send him another ‘retouched’ proof. However, in a separate letter to the Society’s director Mr Peacock, Claasen claimed Langfier never had his written consent to have that portrait taken and that he didn’t want it in the first place. According to the musician, the photographer demanded payment for the photo that he had already taken regardless, which Claasen refused. Due to Langfier’s insistence, Claasen attempted on multiple occasions to obtain the backing of the Society and have the matter resolved in front of the Society’s Committee, as mediators to the feud, but nothing came out of it.

Instead, after four unsuccessful attempts at delivery, Langfier resorted to legal action, having his lawyer contact Claasen on two separate occasions, each of which was ignored. It's unclear what would have happened if Claasen had continued to remain silent, however, the musician was enraged that his name could have been “dragged through the courts,” and insisted that this needed to be challenged with the full support of the Orchestral Society. He said it wouldn’t have been enough to just drop it after being twice ‘‘blackmailed’’ by Langfier. The displayed Claasen’s letter to the Orchestral Society was the last piece of documentation that we can find on the scandal, so to this day its outcome remains uncertain.

Was Langfier eventually granted his sought-after compensation, or did he decide to let the whole thing go? Was Claasen left to fend for himself, or did the Orchestral Society fight in his corner? Maybe one day the truth will come to light, but for now, we can only speculate. What we do know is that whatever the outcome of the dispute, it did not have any impact on Langfier’s career or the reputation of the Orchestral Society, proving perhaps that it was settled behind the scenes.

In the meantime, the Glasgow Orchestral Society went from strength to strength embracing their amateur status and refusing to cater to the unpleasable elite. Instead, they opted to stick to their strengths, breaching the confines of classical music and playing a variety of genres for a variety of audiences. To this day they are still dedicated to bringing escapism to the masses of Glasgow through the magic of music and I like to think that Langfier’s photograph, despite the minor conflict that it caused, played a small but significant part in getting them where they are today.

Unfortunately, this infamous photograph of the Orchestra was not in the Society’s archival collection. It is likely that the picture was one of the ‘casualties’ of the St Andrew’s Halls fire of 1962, that caused the loss of several instruments and material documenting the history of the Society.

 Trivia

• Between 1894 and 1898, Langfier’s studio was located in 202 Hope Street, just at the corner of Sauchiehall Street. He later moved to 137 Sauchiehall Street, not far from today’s Waterstones.

• Some of Langfier’s pictures are kept at the V&A and National Portrait Gallery in London, including that of King George V and his wife Queen Mary.

• According to the Glasgow Post Office directory of 1895, Frederick E. Claasen lived at 43 Dalhousie Street in Cowcaddens. He worked for Blackley, Young & Co, a company of merchants and agents based in 70 Wellington Street.

To see some of the documents of the scandal, to look at one of Langfier’s photographs from up close, or to learn more about Glasgow Orchestral Society, visit us Monday to Friday from 10am to 5pm.

Tickets are free but booking is essential. Contact us at info@mbht.org.uk or 0141 948 0700.

Langfier’s studio at 137 Sauchiehall Street, c.1910

Industry Along the Kelvin

Words by Ruth Currie

The Burgh of Maryhill grew up around the industry that developed along the Forth and Clyde Canal and its Glasgow Branch. But another waterway, the River Kelvin, flows through Maryhill. 

Today there is a walkway from the Clyde right up the river through parks and woods and beyond the city. Indeed, you can continue linking up to the West Highland Way and walk the next hundred miles to Fort William. However, this was not always the case. The Kelvin was formerly the site for many industrial works making use of the river for about 200 years. Let’s take a walk along just part of the Kelvin and into Maryhill and look at some of the industrial sites and the bridges.

Kelvinbridge, Great Western Road

Kelvin Bridge, c.1825

The present bridge is the third bridge on this site built in the 19th century as Glasgow expanded West into Woodside, then Hillhead (another Burgh like Maryhill). Underneath the bridge, what is now part of the Walkway and the car park, used to be railway lines and coal yards. The line then crossed the river entering tunnels under the grand red stone tenement, the Caledonia Building, which towered above. This building was originally planned as a hotel by the railway company. The railway continued on through tunnels to Kirklee and on to Maryhill. The terminus is currently located under the Maryhill Shopping Centre.  

Proceeding up the Kelvin as it enters the gorge, you can see the broken-down weir and some signs of former industries on the opposite bank, below the modern architects building. There are disused steps leading down to the river and a huge hole which carries the old Pinkston burn from the NE of the city - another area in which industry was rapidly expanding in during the 19th century. 

North Woodside Mill, 1855

The North Woodside Flint Mill

After crossing the modern footbridge to the north-east side of the river, you will see the ruins of a flint mill on the old Gariochmill Rd. The mill ground flint from 1846 until after WW2 for use in Glasgow’s once extensive pottery industry. The original mill here was a mill to grind barley, in the days when the whole area was agricultural. Under the ownership of William Gillespie, at the beginning of the nineteenth century this switched to miling phosphate to produce alum which was then use in calico printing. The reason these mills were here was due to the water of the Kelvin flowing quickly through the gorge. 

A little upstream is the magnificent weir which was built to hold the fast-flowing river back, allowing a controlled amount of water to be sent down the lade to the mill where it was used to drive machinery. 

This whole area was eventually landscaped by Glasgow Corporation in the 1970s.So it is changed days with birdsong more noticeable than the sounds of industry. 

Bridges

Walker’s Bridge on Queen Margaret Drive.

Just below the weir are the piers to a bridge which was known as Walkers Bridge after the man who had it built in 1870. It enabled the occupants of the new houses of North Kelvinside to have access to Great Western Road. It was demolished in 1971. The very impressive Queen Margaret Bridge nearby was opened in 1929. As you pass under this bridge and continue along the walkway, you are still on the route of the old Garriochmill Rd.

After passing the first of two bridges on the left, the walkway continues uphill on the right to join the now Garrioch Road. The first bridge leads into the Botanic Gardens which was built in 1890. Further on there is another bridge. This is not the original but a replacement for the Ford Road or Ha’penny bridge, built in 1886. It was built by the owner of Kirklee house who charged a ha’penny for people to cross. He didn’t want the people of Maryhill to ‘invade his land’! The toll house is still there where the money was collected.

Kirklee Bridge

If you cross this bridge into Ford Road then turn right and back down the road into what is now the Botanic Gardens Arboretum, you will pass under the magnificent Granite Kirklee Bridge which was built for people from the east side of the river to access the station at Kirklee. It is difficult to imagine that this arboretum was once an industrial site. Nineteenth century maps show it as the Kirklee bleachfields. Bleaching was an important part of the textile process. The cotton industry was one of Glasgow’s most important industries.

Crossing the river once again on the modern footbridge you cannot miss the railway bridge structures. These lines were not only for passengers to Maryhill but also for access to the various factories and works on both sides of the Kelvin. Up to the right is Wyndford and the site of the original army barracks. 

Some industries

Kelvindale Paper Mill

One of the biggest and longest lasting of these local industries was the Kelvindale paper mill. 

These were located immediately across the Kelvin by Kelvindale bridge at the foot of Kelvindale Road. Originally, the building was founded in the 18th Century as a snuff mill. Snuff was ground tobacco which was sniffed rather than smoked.  From 1840 the large complex became a paper mill, belonging to Edward Collins & Son. The site was ideal as a lot of water is used in the manufacturing of paper. Like many other industries, the business finally closed in the 1970s. A few of the workers’ houses remain. The site is now utilised by private housing. 

A little further up the river there is a dramatic V- shaped weir. Water from here went through a lade to the works. 

 Before continuing under the canal, notice the pier in the middle of the river. This is now a roost for cormorants. 

Dawsholm Gas Works

Passing under the dramatic aqueduct carrying the canal, there are the remnants of yet another railway bridge that crossed the Kelvin. Soon after, is the modern road bridge at the foot of Cowal Street where modern houses have been built. This was the site of Dawsholm gas works, an enormous complex, bounded by the canal, the Kelvin and railway lines. Gas made from coal in the 19th and 20th century was first used to light both streets and houses. Gradually it took over from coal to be the main means of cooking and heating in the home. Electricity became the main form of lighting. Gas works existed in all towns and cities during that period. The pungent and stifling smell from the works will be remembered by people of older generations. In the 1970s gasworks became redundant as North Sea and other natural gas replaced coal gas. Two gas holders or gasometers still exist by Temple Rd. These were designed to store gas and would go up and down depending on how much was being held before distribution. 

This post has only mentioned a few of the works that have come and gone along the Kelvin. Long before there was any industry, the river’s water was used to drive the mills that ground the corn grown on nearby farms. It was the same force of water which could be used to drive machinery before the days of steam power and also to provide the large quantities of water used in the cotton and other industries. But that has changed. 

There is no industry left along the river. Instead, it has reverted to what it must have been like hundreds of years ago. The polluted waters of the old industries have gone. The clean waters now have fish in them again. Birds once more populate the banks. You can often see a heron just standing waiting for its next meal from the water. Cormorants too know they will get a meal. Other small birds live on the banks. Occasionally a kingfisher can be seen darting along. People can again just enjoy the river for what it is. But the remaining signs of industry can tell a story of Maryhill’s recent history. 

(As I write this in January 2021, the banks of the Kelvin are not so peaceful. Huge works are being undertaken to improve the old Victorian sewage system. But once this is finished the river will be even cleaner.) 

All pictures have been taken from Urquhart, G. R., ‘‘Along Great Western Road: An Illustrated History of Glasgow’s West End’’, Stenlake Publishing, 2000.

The ‘Steamie’ Laundry and the Woman of the Magdalene Institute

Words by Ruairi Hawthorne

While it has been out of commission for a long time, there remains one old venerable Glasgow institution that is still the talk of many former patrons.  

Women working in a Steamie c.1940

These patrons weave tales of the days when getting your laundry (and sometimes your body) washed was an adventure filled with blood, sweat and occasional tears, mouth-watering gossip, bountiful bottles and community comradery. These are the tales of the old Glasgow steamies, a place where friendships were formed, information exchanged and, of course, clothes washed.  

Although these luxurious laundries were primarily used for washing purposes, they are mostly remembered as more of a community hub for overworked mothers to convene, chat, and update each other on all the latest local gossip.  

Steamies were also a place for many unwilling children to be dragged, kicking and screaming to, by their mothers to be washed, often followed by reparations in the form of a hot roll from a nearby bakery or a trip to a nearby swimming pool (which often shared the same space as the steamie and wash house). From the first wheelbarrow full of dirty washing to the final dispersal of a group of gossips, the steamies have always been there for maligned mothers, weeping widows, and grateful grandmothers alike.  

Unfortunately, like all things, there is a dark side to the Glasgow steamies. While most former patrons see the old laundries as epitomising the sense of community that has been lost in the present day, a woman who worked in one of them tells a very different story.  

The Glasgow Magdalene Institution c.1890

The Glasgow Magdalane Institution was for the Repression of Vice and the Rehabilitation of Penitent Females opened 1812 with the express purpose of combating the immoral trade of female prostitution. Wayward girls who were not pregnant or were free of any venereal diseases were given a chance to repent through labour. Very often these women were put to work in the washroom of the Institute and were rewarded with a payslip and free accommodation in addition to learning crucial skills to enable them to get a respectable job when they left. Well, that was the pitch anyway. In reality, the institute was just a new cog in the recently established ‘‘Glasgow System’’. This term was used in reference to the treatment of “prostitutes” in Glasgow in the 19th century by the local police and medical authorities, who colluded to ensure that such women were proven either mentally or physically unwell, leading to their indefinite incarceration. If this wasn’t bad enough, the term “prostitute” was being used rather loosely as a badge of shame to any woman whose behaviour was deemed immoral, such as socialists, unwed mothers, and those whose dress sense was not quite up to snuff. If these women were found to have any sort of venereal disease, they would usually end up having a permanent stay in a place like the Lock Hospital. However, if they were deemed only to be ‘mentally degenerate’, they would end up in a place like the Magdalene Institute.

While the girls were paid for their services, their pay was so meagre that it might as well have been free labour. The “free accommodation” was more like imprisonment and many of these women were never able to leave, making the accruement of workplace skills rather redundant. To be fair, some of these women chose to come to these places of their own free will to find salvation and could leave whenever they wanted. However, often this trust was met with judgement and abuse from the staff. Some of the other women were placed there against their will by parents or social workers and could only leave at the latter’s discretion, making their stay at the institute feel more like a prison sentence; some of the time their stay was permanent. Quite a departure from the conclave of gossiping women that springs to mind when most people think of the old Glasgow steamies.

Young Irish women in a Magdalene Institute

Unfortunately, the Glasgow System and its main beneficiary, the Magdalene Institutes, where both adopted outside of the UK in places including Ireland, the United States, Canada, Sweden and Australia. Of course, not all of these institutes were cut from the same cloth and each adopted different approaches to the treatment of their charges. For example, the Magdalene Society of Philadelphia attempted to function as a refuge for women who were trying to escape unhappy family situations, poverty, disease and abusive men.  

Unlike the early Scottish institutes, these women could come and go as they pleased, with many of them getting into a cycle of staying for a few weeks, leaving and then re-entering. This proved to be ineffective at curbing the difficulties that these women faced upon their departure and a stricter policy was implemented that required charges to stay for a minimum of two months. While the institutes harshened their policy on the length of a tenant’s stay (leading to less woman admitting themselves), the nuns severely relaxed the unspoken policy of guilt and judgement directed at these fallen women, finding that it only perpetuated the tragic cycle of self-hatred. Not everyone learned this lesson however, as the New York Magdalene Society ran things in the traditional, judgemental and prison-like fashion, with many women being forcibly committed for up to three years, compelling many to injury and even death in failed escape attempts. Many of these women were taken against their will from their place of work, which varied from brothels to taverns. This was all done under the pretence of saving them from disease, abuse and most of all, themselves and their immoral behaviour.  

However, just as in the Glasgow asylums, these words proved to be hollow and in fact, most of the evils that the institute seemingly protected these women from could easily be found within its own walls. For one, unlike the Glasgow asylums, the New York institute allowed women with venereal diseases within their walls and even attempted amateurish medical treatment. In lieu of innovative medicine like Penicillin for the treatment of such ailments, many new arrivals were given mercury to treat syphilis. This was common practice at the time but was unsafe and often led to patients being poisoned, to the point where the symptoms of mercury poisoning were often confused for syphilis until as late as the early 1920s. 

The New York Institute

 As for abuse, well just like many of their contemporaries, the sisters of the New York institute were extremely judgemental and hostile to their charges, often seeing them as lost causes who could never re-integrate into society, which, in their eyes, justified their indefinite incarceration.  

Thankfully, the Congregation of the sisters of Misericorde, which was based in Canada, where much more sympathetic. Founded by experienced midwife Marie Rosaline in 1848, it specialised in taking care of unmarried pregnant woman until the birth of their children whom they were heavily encouraged to put up for adoption. While this might not sound very progressive, the nuns of the congregation where quite sympathetic to their charges and hoped that adoption would bring a more prosperous life for these children. However, the mere thought of unwed mothers being taken care of was outrageous to many, who saw this as encouraging immoral behaviour. This incentivised the nuns to do their work as discreetly as they could, as they knew that these women would not be met with nearly as much sympathy when they left the Congregation. Many of the nuns saw the major social stigma of giving birth out of wedlock as being the main reason that so many women turned to prostitution in lieu of other employment options as they had no choice.  

Marie Rosaline, founder of the Congregation of the Sisters of Misericorde

Marie was particularly dedicated to the women in her care, often going hungry to feed them if food was scarce and she was known to say that: “Single mothers are the treasure of the house.”. She even used her own home and the homes of her adult children to shelter these women until she was able to acquire proper accommodation. She would even allow them to stay with the congregation after they gave birth and in doing so, she kept them from the cruel world that awaited them outside. This made her congregation one of the only institutes to bear the name Magdalene that actually was a sanctuary for woman, as so many of them falsely claimed to be. 

One of the worst examples of this was in Ireland. In 1767, the Magdalene Asylum for Penitent Females was opened in Dublin and was only the first in a long list of such institutes in Ireland, with the final one only closing in 1996. This particular institute only accepted protestant women and played a similar role to the Glasgow Institutes: to give the police, medical authorities and church a place to quietly tuck away any “undesirable women” sometimes indefinitely. This institute and its many contemporaries where especially harsh, which was partly due to the grip that religious organisations had on Ireland at the time. Like Glasgow’s extremely versatile use of the term “prostitute”, the sisters of the institutes used the term “fallen woman” rather loosely, and it became an all-encompassing term for any woman who did not conform to the very rigid standards of Irish morality. Expansion was rapid and many more institutes were opened throughout the country. However, more laundries meant more workers were needed to operate them, which led to the word “fallen” becoming even more flexible to accommodate the forced labour of more woman. As time went on, it became evermore apparent that unlike Miss Rosaline’s establishment, the institute’s stated mission of “protect, reform and rehabilitate” was far from the top priority of the Magdalene Asylum and its contemporaries.   

Daily Record’s front page dedicated to the 1958 breakout from the Glasgow Institute

For decades the suffering of these women went unheard and the institutes were able to operate without interference. However, in the Glasgow Institution, the residents made it impossible to be ignored. In 1958, 27 inmates escaped the institute and scattered through the streets. Some left through the fire escape while others fled to the roof to protest. To this day, no one knows who, if anyone, led the escape and what could have been the final straw for these women, who had already suffered through years of abuse and ill treatment despite committing no crime. They were hunted by the police, who justified their ruthless pursuit by claiming that the woman had staged a violent riot at the institute, and the public were told to keep watch for them. Their newfound freedom didn’t last long however, as eventually all 27 women were rounded up and returned to the institute, a task that was made relatively easy due to their distinctive blue dresses.  

But the spark of rebellion had already been ignited and another breakout was staged, followed by many more. Every time they were caught, they would vow to escape until their voices were heard. While their freedom was always fleeting, eventually their struggle bore fruit as their claims of mistreatment were finally investigated by the Scottish Home Department. However, by this point these victims of the “Glasgow System” knew better than anyone that injustice would prevail as it had since the institute’s opening, that the Home Department was just another cog in this system and that this investigation would be a mere formality. If they wanted true freedom, they would have to make one final effort that could not be ignored.  

When representatives of the home office arrived at the institution to conduct their investigation, the women instigated another breakout, and while they were unable to substantiate any of their claims of abuse, they didn’t have to. In 1958, more than 100 years after its opening, the Glasgow Institute finally closed its doors after years of silent abuse.    

One would assume that such a significant event would have created a scandalous ripple that would have affected the other Magdalene Asylums, as well as the various churches and governments that supported them but even after such a high-profile closure, the Glasgow Institute was barely commented on in the press. Even when the home office launched an official enquiry, not a single person was held accountable for the alleged abuses. 

 Additionally, many of the other Asylums that were scattered across the globe continued to operate. Northern Ireland was probably the worst example of this, with its final institution only closing its doors in 1996. This was preceded by the discovery of a mass grave on the premisses of a former institute, “The Sisters of Our Lady of Charity”, which was discovered by the land's current owner in 1993. This incident, as well as the subsequent attempt by the sisters to exhume and cremate the dead women ended up shining a brighter spotlight on the system of abuse and control that had permeated Ireland for hundreds of years. This sparked a wave of press coverage and investigations throughout the 1990s and 2000s, with documentaries such as 1998’s Chanell 4 production, “Sex in a Cold Climate”, as well as the 2002 drama “The Magdalene Sisters”. This type of mainstream media exposure resulted in many more woman coming forward, with roughly 450 women contacting a helpline after the initial airing of “Sex in a Cold Climate”.  

In 2001 the Irish Government acknowledged the existence of the asylums for the first time. However, despite their major role in filling the institutes with wayward women, they accepted no responsibility and refused to investigate further. It wasn’t until 2011 that, after years of lobbying from the group “Justice for Magdalene's”, that the government finally launched an official inquiry into the asylums, and after a further 18 months of investigation, admitted that there had been “significant state collusion” with the institutes. Even then, none of the survivor's accounts of physical abuse, horrendous living conditions and forced labour were ever confirmed, with verbal abuse being the full extent of the sister's cruelty in the report. 

 Additionally, the report suggested that the residents were actually free to leave whenever they wanted, much as in some of the other institutes previously mentioned, which led many to speculate that the government was attempting to soften the perception of the institutes and diminish their culpability for the suffering of 11,000 women. Even after the report was published, there was still no talk of a formal apology from the government or a compensation scheme for the many surviving women. These both came in 2013, with Enda Kennedy issuing a formal apology on the behalf of the state government, describing the institutes as the nation's shame and declared that a compensation scheme would be initiated that would include both financial and psychological support.  

Group of Magdalene Campaigners, 2017.

On the other hand, the Catholic Church, who were arguably just as guilty as the state, with two anonymous sisters even claiming that they had provided a free service, and that they were being used as a scapegoat for a myriad of other social issues that had caused the suffering of these women. In addition, none of the three major religious institutes that had run the laundries contributed at all to the compensation of the 600 or so surviving victims, and to this day have refused to acknowledge their role in the exploitation and lasting trauma of these women. While the delayed response of the Irish government and the complete apathy of the church is abhorrent, at least it was talked about.  

Most of the other Magdalene Institutes have barely been mentioned in the press, and when they have, they have often been defended as a necessary measure to combat the plague of prostitution. While some of the institutes were genuine in their endeavour to save these so-called fallen women, most of them merely used this pretence to lock away any woman who strayed from the very narrow path of moral decency, subsequently being exploited for a profit. While the local governments where either indifferent or active participants in this abusive system, the only person who made a significant effort to help the Magdalene women, besides the women themselves, was Jacob Christian Shaffer, the creator of the washing machine. 

Ruchill Hospital Revisited

Ruchill Hospital, c. 1922 [Virtual Mitchell]

 Words by Helena Paterson 

On my return to Scotland ten years ago, after almost 25 years in the Far East, I looked forward to revisiting the Ruchill Hospital. This was only one item on my to-do list. I had worked there as a nurse in 1979 and have many fond memories of the patients there. 

Alexander B. McDonald

In the Beginning 

Glasgow Corporation acquired the site of Ruchill Park for the construction of Ruchill Hospital in 1892. The hospital was officially opened on 13th June, 1900 by Princess Christian, 3rd daughter of Queen Victoria; formerly known as Princess Helena before her marriage to a German prince. Designed by city engineer, Alexander B. McDonald, it was an impressive hospital complex in its Flemish Renaissance style with a touch of Neo-Jacobean, built with red brick and Locharbriggs sandstone. The layout of the hospital was to represent a self-contained village with the individual ward pavilions with their scalloped gables, symmetrically arranged on the steep hilly terrain. At this elevation and being adjacent to Ruchill Park, the site was considered ideal for patients to get plenty of fresh air and sunshine in a city that was for the most part industrial. This was the second fever hospital in Glasgow; the first being Belvidere Hospital in Parkhead which was becoming increasingly cramped.   At the time most of the patients suffered from infectious diseases that were rife at the time such as polio, measles, scarlet fever and diphtheria. 

The Main Staircase 

The entrance to the hospital was by a gatehouse on Bilsland Drive. Straight ahead was a very steep stone staircase that led to an administrative block. The staircase comprised four flights with landings in between, having to ascend a steep gradient.  The stonework was decorative with its stylised balustrade complementing the Flemish Renaissance style of the hospital, octagonal newel posts and corniced piers. Other buildings included the kitchen, laundry, mortuary, laboratory, sanitary wash house and disinfecting station, as well as a stables block. Accommodation was provided for staff with a three-storey nurses’ block. Fortunately, I never had to climb those steps; I could turn left at the gatehouse and follow a path that led to the ward I was assigned to. 

The Water Tower  

The centrepiece of the complex is the 50m high water tower. It is a tall, square red brick and stone tower resting on a pedestal, with a decorated two-stage body and a complex three-stage head resembling a Flemish bell tower. It is decorated with octagonal turrets, bell-roofed with onion finials at the corners of the first stage then another octagonal tower with a pyramid roof, drum of columns, cupola with foliage top and a finial to top the stage head. Its four large water tanks were removed during restoration in 2014. It’s such a pity that with the tower being so tall, one cannot see and admire all the details. However, an ambitious local has taken some video glimpses of it with a remote device which can be viewed in YouTube. It reveals such beautiful sculpture and architectural detail. 

A Few Interesting Characters                                                

  (Patients’ names have been changed to protect their identities) 

Fun-loving Frankie 

Many of the patients I saw in Ruchill Hospital were bed-ridden with various diseases but that didn’t stop them from getting their fun in any way they could, often with a willing accomplice in a young male nurse. I had just started working at the hospital and being so young I was pretty naïve and innocent. On that first day, I was working with the male nurse attending to Frankie’s needs when the nurse took a tin of peanuts from the patient’s locker and asked me if I’d like one. I declined the offer as I didn’t feel comfortable taking anything that belonged to the patient. Then Frankie insisted I take some stating that he couldn’t eat them as he had no teeth. Neither of them would take no for an answer so I relented and took off the lid. However, I immediately let out a scream and dropped the tin when something suddenly leapt out at top speed. It was not a real tin of peanuts but a trick one with a large spring inside a leopard print cotton cover. The two pranksters were in fits of laughter. I was somewhat embarrassed but I was happy that Frankie had some fun that day. I thought these two must have tried that one on every ‘newbie’. 

Flirty Phillip 

Helena, a colleague, and three patients.

Phillip was a middle-aged man who suffered from motor neurone disease which left him paralysed from the neck down. However, he was always cheerful despite his physical limitations. When he had to be hoisted onto mobile apparatus to take him for his bath, he would sing out loudly and tell jokes. He was a very intelligent and well-educated man who would often quote poetry to me. He would always quote a line containing the phrase ‘eyes like limpid pools’ whenever I entered his ward. His teasing would embarrass me as I was only 19 years old then but he was a very nice man and I admired his long-suffering attitude and positivity. Recently, I tried to find out where this phrase came from and all I could find were these two possibilities: 

1. An article in Esquire Magazine 1940 

1. Bugs Bunny’s friend, Pepe Le Peue was fond of using this phrase 

I’m not sure which one Phillip was referencing but I hope it was the former, otherwise he was really having fun at my expense-not that I mind as he was a lovable character. 

Frail Florrie  

Florrie was a very small elderly lady who suffered from a bone disease and looked even smaller being permanently hunched over. She didn’t speak much but liked to wander around the ward. One day she went missing. I had just come on duty so immediately joined the search party. Indoors and outdoors were searched thoroughly but to no avail. The police had to be called. Whilst awaiting their arrival, I checked through all the rooms again and ended up in a vacant room at the end of the ward. There were beds stacked along one wall and the rest of the room was clear. I stood there wondering where she could be when I heard a whimpering sound. The only place to look was under the beds and there Florrie was, curled up like a little field mouse right at the back. She was too far in for me to reach her so I called for the male Charge Nurse. He crawled under and brought her out to safety. Another call to the police was needed. I was just glad she was safe and sound. 

A Sad State of Affairs 

I tried to find out what had been happening at the Ruchill Hospital since I left the country and was deeply shocked and saddened at the conditions I saw it in: neglected, abandoned, forlorn and in a state of decay. My plan for a stroll around the grounds, taking a trip down ‘Memory Lane’ was now scuppered. It had closed on 3rd December, 1998. Through photographs that had been posted on Urbanglasgow.co.uk, I could see the conditions inside the hospital before its demolition. 

The scenes captured in these photos showed a depressing situation. It was like the devastation after some natural disaster or war. The cracked walls and peeling paint at random depths resembled an aerial view of a parched land after a severe drought. Only the ceramic tiles remained intact. Lagging dangled from the exposed ceiling and roof like streamers abandoned after a party. Sunlight streamed through the many gaps in the roof. Debris from the collapsed roof was strewn over the floors. One photograph showed a collapsed ceiling with its multiple layers spilling through like a pack of cards suspended in mid-air, creating quite a surreal image. The rafters were still fighting the sagging roof above. Due to water ingress from the exposed roof which had been stripped of its lead, large puddles were dotted along all the corridors. The once beautiful and ornate staircases were in ruins. Some newels had survived though bent and twisted out of shape. The first few metres of a fire hose snaked under fallen rubble and thick layers of dust. A collapsed floor revealed one of the hospital’s service tunnels below. Many interior fittings had been torn out. All the buildings had suffered badly from vandalism too. A plain white clock mounted high on a wall had stopped at 9.30. ETA : Estimated time of abandonment? 

With the many broken windows , the buildings had become a sanctuary for wildlife. Some people had reported seeing foxes in the grounds. No doubt, many other creatures such as mice, birds and squirrels, as well as an infinite variety of insects, would have taken up residence there. Their tiny heartbeats would be the only active pulses then. 

Update  

According to the Glasgow Times, October 2020 / August 2021, 403 homes are to be built on the hospital site ie. 160 flats across 10 blocks and 243 houses. There will also be 658 car parking spaces available. Most of the hospital buildings have already been demolished. Sections of the listed main staircase’s balustrade have collapsed and others are misaligned. The top west pier has collapsed and the ball finials from the bottom piers lost. It had been slated for demolition too but will now be opened up with a lighting scheme. Only the A-listed water tower will remain as the centrepiece of the housing estate and that area will be pedestrianised. Bellway Homes says it aims to, ‘deliver a bespoke residential development, providing much needed high-quality family homes to the area’ and ‘seeks to reach the highest standards in urban design…’. All the homes, built using red brick – a nod to the former hospital buildings - will be incorporated into mini neighbourhoods and are for private sale. To enhance the areas east and west of the site, two large parks and some smaller parks have been provided. 

It is evident that the hospital buildings had become unsafe and beyond repair so it is understandable that they had to be demolished. However, we can look forward to seeing the beautiful housing estate that is planned for this historic site. 

 As for me, I’ll still take that walk around the new estate and picture in my mind’s eye the wards and other buildings that once functioned there.  

Useful links 

• To take a virtual walk around the hospital corridors visit: 

                Ruchill Hospital - YouTube  Film footage of derelict Ruchill Hospital, taken in May 2009 

• To view a large selection of still photos visit: urbanglasgow.co.uk 

• YouTube videos give a close up tour of the water tower  

Trivia  

• The illustration on the cover of the invitation to the opening of the Ruchill Hospital is Balmoral Castle, not the hospital itself 

• Jessie McTavish, a nurse, was convicted of murdering a patient with insulin at the hospital in 1974 

• The filming of the BBC TV programme "Cardiac Arrest" (1994) was on location at Ruchill Hospital.  

Series 1 & 2 

This is your: Maryhill Flag!

You asked we delivered!

The winning #AFlagForMaryhill has been unveiled.

Special thanks to our Heritage Manager Nicola, our volunteer Ian, Emma and Sami from the Shakespeare Street Youth Club, and the piper for marking this special day!

Flag B is "A modern take on a traditional tricolour flag representing a narrow boat as traditionally seen on the Forth & Clyde Canal. The red represents community passion, and the black symbolizes Maryhill’s industrial past. Lastly, the blue represents the waterways of the Forth and Clyde Canal and the river Kelvin that cross in Maryhill."

We would like to extend a thank you to every individual, group and organisation who came along and made this day a success.

Well done to the designer of Flag B for gaining the most votes. Their design will go on and represent Maryhill!

Additionally, The MBHT team would like to thank you all for your participation in the year long competition.

'A Flag for Maryhill' has brought our community together to reflect on our shared history and look towards the future.

"It is wonderful to see the winning design mirror ideas from former insignia used by Maryhill. As such it shows the continued resonance of these symbols in the town to this day, and it is nice that we are able to finally provide the official recognition to them by adding the design alongside the Saltire and other flags in the Public Register of All Arms and Bearings in Scotland." - Philip Tibbetts (Lyon Court Vexillologist)

A member of the local community commented on the Flag Launch & Gala day event:

"Flag Launch Day is the true re-opening the Halls. I see this event as a step towards normality. Hopefully getting our own flag strengthens our relationship with Maryhill".

#ThisIsYourMaryhillFlag

Halls manager Melanie Farrow standing beside winning #AFlagForMaryhill

A Flag For Maryhill: Flag Launch & Gala Day

The Glasgow community of Maryhill is set to get its own flag this October, for the first time in the area’s two-hundred-year history.  

It follows a unique, year-long competition involving hundreds of individuals, local schools and community groups who were all given the chance to submit a proposed design thanks to a £2,000 community regeneration fund.  

The ‘A Flag for Maryhill’ project, an idea conceived by staff and volunteers at Maryhill Burgh Halls during the COVID-19 pandemic, is designed to allow a community of around 75,000 people the chance to reflect on a shared history and look with pride to the future.   

A judging panel - consisting of world leading experts from the Flag Institute, the Lyon Court (who maintains Scotland’s register of grants of arms and regulates heraldry) through to comedian Janey Godley and Still Game actress Jane McCarry – whittled the entries down to just five before the shortlist was opened to a public vote.  

Flag experts Philip Tibbetts (the Lyon Court Vexillologist) and Lord Lyon are saddened that they cannot attend the unveiling in Maryhill: “It will be present in our mind whilst we perform ceremonial duties for the nation at the Scottish Parliament today”. They are happy to finally provide official recognition to the Flag of Maryhill by “Adding the winning design alongside the Saltire and other flags in the Public Register of All Arms and Bearings in Scotland”.

The flag project has attracted attention and support from across Scotland and beyond with the likes of Tim Marshall, the author of the best-selling book ‘Worth Dying For: The Power and Politics of Flags’ remarking “Flags represent our hopes and dreams, they represent the politics of high power as well as the politics of the people. The world is a confusing place right now and we need to understand the symbols, old and new, that can divide or unite us.”   

Flags are an ancient art form that developed especially to clearly display allegiance and identity. They have subsequently become the premier medium for expressing social pride, indeed it is difficult to imagine events as diverse as sports matches, military parades or musical festivals without a wide range of flags being flown.  

The winning flag, which will be unfurled at a community street party on October 2nd, following which the design will be made available to all at no cost.   

Event Details   

Date: Saturday 2nd Oct 2021  

Times: 11am - 4pm  

Doors Open Days Festival

This year we are participating in the Doors Open Days Festival. Doors Open Days provides the opportunity for people to visit new venues and celebrate their heritage.

This event is coordinated nationally by the Scottish Civic Trust and is part of European Heritage Days alongside Scottish Archaeology Month, coordinated by Archaeology Scotland. Both are supported by Historic Environment Scotland

There is a series of fun events taking place throughout the 18th and 19th September at Maryhill Burgh Halls. The Halls will be open from 10:00 to 17:00, so make sure you make the most of it.

You can visit the Halls for a tour on either the 18th and 19th September (11:00 & 14:00).

Additional events:

Drop-in Art Session

18-19 September 2021 (10:00-16:00)

Loving Earth Exhibition

18-19 September 2021 (10:00-17:00)

Something Smashing

19 September 2021 (12:00-15:00)

All events are free and made accessible to all.

You can browse the programme on the Doors Open Days website for more information:

https://bit.ly/DoorsOpenDayProgramme

#AFlagForMaryhill finalists announced!

On August 31st 2020 we launched a competition which invited individuals, community groups and schools to design a community flag. 'A Flag for Maryhill' has brought our community together to reflect on our shared history and look to our future.

Below you can find the top five designs selected by our judging panel. Congratulations to our finalists!

Public voting has now commenced and can be done online through our Facbook or in person at the halls. Tickets are free but booking is essential. Book over the phone: 0141 948 0700 or by email: info@mbht.org.uk.

If you are struggling to pick a favourite, take a look at the inspiration behind each unique design. Many took their inspiration from unique features of our landscape and from the history associated with the local barracks.

Happy voting!

Design A:

The ‘M’ shape represents hills and the first letter of Maryhill. The blue ‘V’ represents the River Kelvin and the Canal that run through the heart of Maryhill.

Design B:

A modern take on a traditional tricolour flag representing a narrow boat as traditionally seen on the Forth & Clyde Canal. The red represents community passion and the black symbolizes Maryhill’s industrial past. Lastly, the blue represents the waterways of the Forth and Clyde Canal and the river Kelvin that cross in Maryhill.

Design C:

The central badge is part of that of the Highland Light Infantry who were based at the Wyndford Barracks.The red and yellow are the colours of Partick thistle, our local team – affectionately known as the Jags.

Design D:

The design celebrates the architectural accomplishment of the Forth and Clyde Canal, as well as the Kelvin Aqueduct which initiated settlement into the area. It may also appear to look like iron chains, representing the ironworks and the dry docks which spurred industrial growth in the area.

Design E:

The green in the flag represents Maryhill's nature, while the golden sides represents the city's history and past. The blue represents Maryhill's canals. The elephant and bugle are featured on the flag because they were the symbol of the HLI, who were famously stationed in Maryhill.